Broken record here regarding undercoating. I just returned from visiting my Camaro, which should be getting painted tomorrow, and I spent quite some time examining the pan and trunk area and I am totally IN LOVE with the undercoating choice we made: truck bed-liner. I really have no other experience other than what I hear, but I do hear some negatives about traditional undercoats. Still, if this is an occasional pleasure-driver, maybe down Hwy 49 through Jackson and Moke Hill, popping by Twain Harte, you probably can't lose with any way you go. You're not doing this for us, you're doing it for you, and what makes you smile is all that counts.

 

Just an up date... slow working do to the colder weather. I got a hold of a jet heater to warm up the garage about 20 degrees to paint. Worked out great. I just finished the final undercoat this past x-mas break. Since its a do it yourself restoration, I'm ended up using the Eastwood 2k Ceramic chassis black. It's the aerosol spray can with the activator. Also used the internal frame coating for the frame and other hidden areas. Also did a lot of primer coating for all my misc. parts. Will continue with seam sealing the interior and final painting for parts.

There is one thing that I need to give input on for future restorers. I made a mistake in cleaning and grinding rust of a lot of parts this past summer and so excited that all that work was done. Then, of course, my not so good friend Mr. Rust decided to pay me a visit. All the parts I meticulously cleaned, now has more surface rust appearing on everything. Was not as hard as the initial cleaning, but still had grind down the rust again and even had to re-soak some items. As a point of advise... if you clean anything down to bare metal, paint it as soon as possible. If you can't, then you will have to wait until you are ready for that part. I am not looking forward to seeing all my nuts, blots, washers and other small parts. They too were cleaned, but have been stored in bags in a plastic bin, so hope they are still good.

 

Just finished the internal frame coat on my subframe last weekend (Can also see other parts hanging in the background that I was painting too). I used the Eastwood Internal Frame Coating. Its a great product that can reach inside areas with a 2' x 3/16" tube with a wide spray nozzle at the end of the tube. I used three cans on my subframe (way to much), but made sure every inch was covered. I used tape to cover the holes to determine my coverage, plus a flash light extender helps to see inside. Oh... never mentioned it, but did the internal coating on the frame body too. Lots of areas in the support frame, rocker panels and other areas (very happy with what I did). I will paint the frame this coming weekend along with a bunch more parts. I had a goal of end of February to have my car back on wheels to be painted, but I think I'm about 6-8 weeks out, so looks like a spring paint job. Still lots to do, seam sealing interior, assemble front suspension/steering, clean/paint rear end & install, clean & prep brake & fuel lines, assemble front radiator frame & light assemblies, install paneling....and then paint? ..... OMG, so much to do by myself. What have I gotten myself into.

 

Boy, I bet you're getting excited as you approach getting your ride turned back into a roller! Haven't seen what you're doing with rear end. Just curious. Regarding front sub-frame, you probably noticed that my shop has totally assembled front components, from control arms, brakes, steering, engine/tranny as they feel it's a LOT easier to do this out in the open, then mount the entire assembly to the body, then finally build the engine compartment around the sub-frame mass (inner fenders and core support). They intend to leave the fenders and hood off while doing new wiring loom to avoid scratching new paint as much as possible. So here is what this will look like in a week or two:


We got this far only to find insufficient clearance between HEI distributor and firewall at which point it went back on rotisserie. Also, another point to consider: Jerry elected to leave it on rotisserie to complete body paint all the way through as he finds it easier to perform lower-body paint when he can rotate the car. Also mounting fuel tank is easier. I'll grant that all this is easier if you have a second set of hands to help.

 

Thanks for sharing Ist Gen. It makes it so much easier to lower the body on the subframe. and Yes... very excited

The rear end is not quite clean. Its the original 10 bolt 3.08 posi rear end. I have removed all the grime and grease buildup and just started working on the rust. Wow....it will be hard. Was thinking about taking in to get sand blasted, but don't want to take any chances of getting sand inside. The axles are out and I already replaced the seals and have the cover off. Bearing replace a while back and only has a couple hundred miles on them, so no reason to rebuild again. I do have some rubber tape that is intended for sand blasting. I could tape up the the ends and the driveline connection and send it in... any pointers?

I was going to put the suspension and steering back together this past weekend, but I hit a roadblock. It turns out my lower right control arm had been damaged just enough that I can not get in the new bushing. I tried so hard and the bushing just will not line up. Looks like the control arm was hit years ago and bent the metal to a point it distorted the holes. In the process I ruined the bushing and the new ball joint. Now I have to get an after market control arm and a new bushing set. I already installed the ball joint, and I will have to get another after all the pressure from installing and removing...seems to be leaking grease from the back. Anyway.... now I will more than likely have to wait on parts. Other wise I'll be waiting weeks if not months for that dam control arm. Anyone...please let me know if they have an original lower right control arm for a 68'. I go on line and most seem to advertise 67-69 camaro/firebird. I want one from a '68. There is a difference between years and cars, slight, but different. Now that I think about it.... this is my first big set back. Been really lucky these past few months. This will be the first major part that will not be original. Below is a pic of this past weekend with parts and sub-frame all ready to assemble. I do have all the parts I need. There are some parts missing in this pic, they are still hanging from painting. The tie rods are assembled and idler arm and shocks still in the box.

 

I know this is a late. My instructor at school asked at school ask "does anyone know how long it takes for rust to start after you have bare metal'. Its a trick question the answer is instantly. This micro rust it just looking for water. Of course there is water in the air. In high humidity areas it grows fast. In low humidity it grows very slowly but it is still there. This is why we use acid etch primer. The acid kills the micro rust but if you can see it its too much for just primer to handle. There are product that can last for months. Eastwood sells metal wash or has a updated version. That was a powder you added to water that will stops the chemical reaction that starts rust. The nice part is the product says you do not even need to clean it off because it promotes adhesion of the primer.

 

Hold off a little bit on ordering a control arm. I have the guys checking to see if they still have mine, which were all replaced. The right side was undamaged. I'll let you know what they find.

 

Oh, man, bad news. The entire sub-frame and components went to scrap yard long ago. Probably going to add a bit of value to Chinese steel... And as long as I'm raining on your parade, the assembly of my sub-frame went dead in the water for a while because of a back-order on (wait for it) bottom control arms: For a while, this is what the shop floor looked like:


Regarding sand-blasting an open rear end, a part of me says "No Way" a la Nancy Reagan. HOWEVER, I'm not necessarily good at following my own advice. I've been restoring my 1937 John Deere Model G, and have the jugs removed, which leaves this HUGE hole into the crankcase (two cylinders equals 402 ci!!!). I talked to my friend Phil, who worked in Oakland for Freightliner as a master painter, and he told me to cut out cardboard and then tape it using 200mph duct tape and there should be no problem (God bless Nashua 357). I did so, and as near as I can tell, no infiltration, but I will take no prisoners when I get there, and drain all oil and flush the case. Not too many people around who can do Babbitt Bearings, and mine are still good, and checked out with plastigage to good gap, both crank mains and both rods.

 

1st Gen... Well crap... thank for trying. I know Camaro Central has a good setup that includes the ball joint and bushings installed for under $200, that's a good deal but I'll have to call them on lead time for ordering. I found one on EBay, just what I need. Never bought from EBay, you think it's reliable. I'll have to order the ball joint and bushings separately.


Gorn.... Thanks for the lesson on rust. I certainly have not done any of that to my parts. For small parts, I soaked in a de-rust solution for 24 hours. Others were either sandblasted or wire brushed/sanded, cleaned with degreaser and wipe down and primered. Like I said in my previous post, had to re-clean some parts. Hope all my work was not for nothing.

 

I buy a lot of things on ebay,only been really burned once and it was a case of you get what you paid for buying something new but super cheap.
That said if you are going to shop ebay get a paypal account,it will protect you from ripoffs.