PCV valve
#1
PCV valve
Newbie here...
So, I just bought a 1965 Corvette restomod, and it has a re-built 1967 Camaro SS 396 in it. FWIW, it has a Holley 770 Street Avenger carb...
Currently, there's two breathers; one on each valve cover. Typically, should there be a PCV valve on the driver side??..... Also, what about a crankcase vent elbow and hose on the passenger side attached to air cleaner base??
Thanks
So, I just bought a 1965 Corvette restomod, and it has a re-built 1967 Camaro SS 396 in it. FWIW, it has a Holley 770 Street Avenger carb...
Currently, there's two breathers; one on each valve cover. Typically, should there be a PCV valve on the driver side??..... Also, what about a crankcase vent elbow and hose on the passenger side attached to air cleaner base??
Thanks
#2
Big blocks can pump quite a bit of oil mist out the breathers when run hard and if there's a hose to the aircleaner it can saturate the filter.
That's probably why it's just got breathers and no hoses connected.
The breathers on the valve covers will let it just vent to the atmosphere although some may end up on the valve covers.
The early Chevy V-8s didn't have a PCV just a filter on the back of the block with a tube venting to the ground.
They early valve covers didn't have a bung for a breather they were sealed.
That's probably why it's just got breathers and no hoses connected.
The breathers on the valve covers will let it just vent to the atmosphere although some may end up on the valve covers.
The early Chevy V-8s didn't have a PCV just a filter on the back of the block with a tube venting to the ground.
They early valve covers didn't have a bung for a breather they were sealed.
#4
It either goes out to the air or into your intake or aircleaner where it gets burned and goes out the exhaust.
It's not a big problem unless you run it hard a lot,I did with a 427 in a '69 Camaro years ago,big solid lifter cam and a lead foot. lol
Not the best daily driver but super 102 leaded was $0.99 a gallon.
I was a youngster in my 20's on a shoestring budget when I built that car.
Just had breathers on both M/T valve covers and washed off the oil after running her hard.
That usually meant revving to the limit and power shifting gears.
Under just normal driving oil consumption should be minimal especially if it's the milder 325 hp motor with the hydraulic cam and not the higher compression solid lifter cammed 375 hp (under rated) motor.
In my experience all big blocks can go through some oil forced out by crankcase pressure,nature of the beast.
That said if it's not a daily driver and or run hard often it's not much of a problem,use your dipstick and add as needed.
#5
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,362
PCV valve is considered and emission item. It is design to pull gases out of the engine that will leak into the atmosphere and reburn them Thing is if you do not have the other emission items like a cat its like cleaning 1 or 2% of your exhaust. .
#6
Not so much,it has to go somewhere,some do have a catch can setup but I never used one.
It either goes out to the air or into your intake or aircleaner where it gets burned and goes out the exhaust.
It's not a big problem unless you run it hard a lot,I did with a 427 in a '69 Camaro years ago,big solid lifter cam and a lead foot. lol
Not the best daily driver but super 102 leaded was $0.99 a gallon.
I was a youngster in my 20's on a shoestring budget when I built that car.
Just had breathers on both M/T valve covers and washed off the oil after running her hard.
That usually meant revving to the limit and power shifting gears.
Under just normal driving oil consumption should be minimal especially if it's the milder 325 hp motor with the hydraulic cam and not the higher compression solid lifter cammed 375 hp (under rated) motor.
In my experience all big blocks can go through some oil forced out by crankcase pressure,nature of the beast.
That said if it's not a daily driver and or run hard often it's not much of a problem,use your dipstick and add as needed.
It either goes out to the air or into your intake or aircleaner where it gets burned and goes out the exhaust.
It's not a big problem unless you run it hard a lot,I did with a 427 in a '69 Camaro years ago,big solid lifter cam and a lead foot. lol
Not the best daily driver but super 102 leaded was $0.99 a gallon.
I was a youngster in my 20's on a shoestring budget when I built that car.
Just had breathers on both M/T valve covers and washed off the oil after running her hard.
That usually meant revving to the limit and power shifting gears.
Under just normal driving oil consumption should be minimal especially if it's the milder 325 hp motor with the hydraulic cam and not the higher compression solid lifter cammed 375 hp (under rated) motor.
In my experience all big blocks can go through some oil forced out by crankcase pressure,nature of the beast.
That said if it's not a daily driver and or run hard often it's not much of a problem,use your dipstick and add as needed.
For what it's worth, the engine is/was the 396/375hp, but bored.060 over with a "slightly" bigger cam.
Thanks again!
#7
You might check out "Driven" brand motor oil.
https://drivenracingoil.com/
Note I am talking specifically about their "Hot Rod" formulation, as discussed here: https://drivenracingoil.com/c-138946...gine-oils.html
It is specifically formulated for '60's era engines. Modern motor oils have changed their additives significantly, and not for the better when it comes to old-style flat-tappet engines. You will find Driven's web-site and their You Tube sites very educational when it comes to oils. My 396 was built by a very good shop and they REQUIRE that I use Driven oil both for break-in and for the duration of their warranty period (7 years/100,000 miles).
Regarding valve cover ventilation, my engine builder went with a breather on the driver side, and a PCV solution on passenger side.
https://drivenracingoil.com/
Note I am talking specifically about their "Hot Rod" formulation, as discussed here: https://drivenracingoil.com/c-138946...gine-oils.html
It is specifically formulated for '60's era engines. Modern motor oils have changed their additives significantly, and not for the better when it comes to old-style flat-tappet engines. You will find Driven's web-site and their You Tube sites very educational when it comes to oils. My 396 was built by a very good shop and they REQUIRE that I use Driven oil both for break-in and for the duration of their warranty period (7 years/100,000 miles).
Regarding valve cover ventilation, my engine builder went with a breather on the driver side, and a PCV solution on passenger side.
Last edited by 1st Gen; 11-09-2022 at 09:14 PM. Reason: Left information out
#8
^^^^this
also Valvoline VR1 10-30 is a high zinc content oil. Flat tappet cam motors need this type of oil. Driven, Joe Gibbs IIRC, is also very good. Some motors with wider than stock bearing clearances (many rebuilds are) often spec 20-50 t oil
also Valvoline VR1 10-30 is a high zinc content oil. Flat tappet cam motors need this type of oil. Driven, Joe Gibbs IIRC, is also very good. Some motors with wider than stock bearing clearances (many rebuilds are) often spec 20-50 t oil
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post