Hi torque starter wiring?

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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 12:27 AM
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murdered67's Avatar
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Default Hi torque starter wiring?

Hello all.
New to this forum. Im in the final strokes of my 67 build. I'm sure it's been asked repeatedly but I can't find a definite answer... When wiring a hi torque starter on a 67 what's the solution to the ignition losing voltage while cranking?
Can I just connect the yellow wire with the purple to send voltage to my MSD for starting?
Thanks in advance
 
Old Mar 16, 2016 | 12:28 PM
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So I take it you're still running a points distributor? Btw, with an MSD, you abandon the condenser, the points are just used as a trigger, follow the MSD installation instructions. The old "starter bypass wire" was for feeding the (stock setup) coil full power only while cranking. When in the run position, the coil was fed off a resistance wire (between 9-10 volts), you're not going to have an ignition voltage deficiency with the MSD as that runs off of a 12 volt source. If you're running an electronic ignition distributor, there is still no issue, but again, follow the hook up instructions.
 

Last edited by Camaro 69; Mar 16, 2016 at 12:31 PM.
Old Mar 16, 2016 | 01:42 PM
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murdered67's Avatar
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thanks for the reply,
I should have clarified; Running MSD Pro-Billet Distributor with 6-AL.
The issue isn't with the wiring of the ignition, its with the starter that now has only one terminal (aside form the main battery lead).
The purple wire activates the solenoid, and while activated the yellow sent 12v to the ballast resistor then to the original points. with the original starter the yellow sent 12v to the coil while in crank mode, now the terminal isn't there to connect the yellow to.
Problem is without that connected, the msd will have no voltage while in the crank position, only while in run. And obviously wont start. This is because the ignition switch breaks contact while in crank.

Confusing.
 
Old Mar 17, 2016 | 08:49 AM
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The MSD box gets 2 power hookups. The fatter red wire connects directly to the battery + terminal, or to the battery cable stud on the starter, whichever is more convenient for you. This connection has continuous power and is internally fused. The smaller red wire connects to a switched power source (key on/run, not key start). I connected mine, with an inline fuse, to the switched "ACC" terminal on the fuse panel. That's it for power connections. The old stuff; resistance wire to coil, starter bypass wire to coil, is abandoned.
 
Old Mar 17, 2016 | 02:22 PM
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I didnt think of the accessory wire. Assuming it stays live during crank connecting to that should solve my problem.
Thanks!
 
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