I’m stumped and hope someone can help. Every time I adjust the clutch, it drifts its engagement point to the floor. Within 20 miles, I can’t shift anymore. I’ve now adjusted the rod out so far that I can tell I’m putting excess pressure on the fingers of the pressure plate. I have a fully restored 69 Camaro with a crate 350, Muncie 4 speed and all stock (new or rebuilt) from the back of the motor to the wheels. I installed the crate motor 600 miles ago and replaced the clutch, PP and bearing at the same time. I've checked everything from the clutch pedal to the fork at the bell housing and everything is solid. There is no noise or vibration. When the clutch is adjusted, everything is smooth. The engine is properly secured to the bell housing. The clutch pedal assembly and linkage were restored about 2,000 miles ago and is functioning properly. The only thing I can think of is something inside the bell housing but since there is no noise or vibration, I would appreciate your thoughts before I take that project on.

 

I'm sure the return spring (10) and its extension (11) are installed from the engine mount tab to the fork.
Adjust free play for 1/2-3/4 inch at pedal. If this does not work and still losing free pedal, then a new PP. and I have had NO problems with a GM PP from the dealer.

From 1969 AIM

 

Everett: Thanks for the feedback. Yes, the spring is attached but slightly modified due to headers. I'm struggling with the idea it's the PP since there's no noise or vibration, but I'm out of ideas. I'll try the GM PP.

 

do you have the correct length throw out bearing?
Sep 21, 2007 - The 'flat fingered' pressure plate uses the longer throwout bearing. The plate with the fingers that are 'bent upward' uses the short bearing.

 

I second what Flat Tire said. I've been there, found out the hard way. Oops, I was sold the wrong throwout bearing.

 

Issue found. Problem solved so I thought I would memorialize it in this thread for future reference. It was something I never thought of. The fork had two significant cracks and a series of stress cracks at the pivot point where the fork rides on the ball attached to the bell housing. The fork was bending a little each time I used it.

 

Glad you got it sorted out.

 

X2 on the solution. Good deal.