What do you guys think is this a good deal and good match for my car?

1967 BBC 396 ENGINE FOR CAMARO, CHEVY OR CHEVELLE. IT INCLUDES THE ENGINE BLOCK, HEADS, PISTON RODS & CRANK. HAVE ALL THE BOLTS, OIL PAN & TIMING COVER. IT HAS MAIN BOLT STUDS IN BLOCK (ARP BRAND). DO NOT HAVE THE INTAKE, CAM OR CARBURETOR! BLOCK WILL NEED TO BE CLEANED & REBUILT. IT HAS NO CRACKS, HOWEVER THERE IS 1 HEAD BOLT BROKE OFF THAT NEEDS TO BE DRILLED OUT. HEADS ARE CLOSED CHAMBER COMBUSTION AREA & THE CRANK IS STEEL. ENGINE WAS NOT BLOWN BEFORE REMOVAL, WAS TAKEN OUT SEVERAL YEARS AGO & SAVED. HEADS AND BLOCK ALL HAVE THE MATCHING NUMBER OF 1196. other numbers pn the block are: 3902406 and T0929IV and vin 7S124474

$700.00

Thanks

 

What you have there is a 1967 396/425 h.p., not 375.
"T0929IV": T-Tonawanda engine plant, 09-September, 29-day of the month, IV-Camaro, Chevelle.
The 396 came in the Camaro SS later in the 1967 production year (production for the 1967 model started in August 1966). So, the early September date would have to make it a Chevelle block.
Is it worth $700? That depends on how much of it (crank, pistons, etc.) is re-usable. I'd hit him with a low-ball offer.

 

I have a real RS/SS 396 4sp. The big block was gone when I bought it but I'm hunting down a 396 because the car will be worth much more. I am currently running a 71 LT1 corvette 350 in it with it's original 4sp. So, drive it and enjoy it. Buy the 396 when your able to.

 

The 65 and 66 series big blocks are the first two years porduction and had the oiling system run up to the heads via the rear cam. The cam had an oil groove cut into the rear journal. After 66 the block had the groove cut into the block, into the cam journal housing.
No big deal, but it would be better to get a 67 production big block (or even a little later) rather than a 65 or a 66. It is the right design for that year.

 

Been there my 66 ss that sit for a long time while I was I single dad with 3 kids,then as my oldest was growing up she took to the car fast helpping me wash it when she was 2 in a diper its a great picture, my point she was looking on ebay after a car show one night she was like 16 then she came yelling out of her room she found a motor for her car she said lol it was a 396 out of a 66 so the motor are out there and you don't have to sale the cars when you have a family my 3 kids love the cars am looking for 1 more 396 now when I get some cash for the camaro I have had the car over 30 years love the 396s it had a 327 from chevy

 

I know I read a lot in the last 10 years about numbers correct car. Most of the time I hear people talking about it is guys trying to make their car worth more. But I have been part time in the car business since the mid 80’s and I use to help people find cars before it became so easy on the internet. I have had a lot of guys that were looking for numbers matching. You got your show guys and your collectors, neither want a numbers correct car. No way can a number correct car stack up in a real car show where the color of the radio indicator can cause you to not be in the top ten. I also got the guys that want an original Big block cars with big blocks but most of those guys would like Chrome, headers the normal period correct stuff they wanted as a kid. I never had a person ask me for a car that looks exactly like an original car even tho I can never win or even compete in a car show.

This is me asking, Is there really a market for numbers correct cars? Who buys them? Is it people who love show cars but cannot afford numbers matching? One of the posts above said that with a BB its worth 60K. That is a numbers matching value. If 60K is the value of a number matching car then what is same condition numbers correct value? I have only seen asking prices on Number correct cars I never talked to some that bought one. Maybe a number correct owner can explain? Is there different show? Maybe a less formal show? I am use to the national competition where everyone is shooting for 100 point car.

I am not just asking to be a *****. I have the below RS/SS with a 69 350 4 bolt in it. It was built back in the mid 90’s It has the double hump heads and pushes 325-350 HP with about 10K on it. The rear main is starting to leak. Is there really any value in finding a original 67-350. The rest of the except the radio and power steering is original.

I kind of just assumed all the people that where building “numbers correct” cars where just calling them that until they got the Vin restamped so they had a “numbers matching” car. And yes this very common. I have even seen guys alter casing numbers and restamp the block to get a numbers matching car and that was 20 years ago. Which is why most collectors want to see a history of the car.

 

^ i agree with how hard it is to win with a factory car against the same car but someone just dumped everything in the chrome tank. i remember one year i had my 68 at a show when it was fresh. had is shined up really good and next to me was another 68 that had worn paint but had a ls transplant and a racing inspired that won. was i mad? a little but thats just what people like. it doesnt bother me anymore i built my car the way i wanted it and if no one else likes i dont care. but sometimes all it takes to win is wheels. another local guy with a camaro has an all original #s matching 69 z28 that is also a factory paint code delete. there is no factory paint code on the tag. the car is 100% original but runs 98 ss wheels. (he has rallys for concourse events) but that car wins all the time. as to the orginal post i would put a big block thats relatively close in date and stick in the car just because big block are cool to see when u pop the hood. most people have no clue it the car had one from the factory becasue they dont know how to decode the tag.

 

Some great comments guys. Gorn, youre right on about 'numbers matching' cars, value and show value. The car show scene is a whole world in itself. I appreciate the effort and attention some folks will put into preparing a completely original car, just how it came off the facory floor, cant say I have the dedication to do that. I bought a car that had a 396 in it, but it was originally a small block car, 10 bolt rear, single leafs, drums all round. It had been done up as a SS, with Z 28 stripes and a rear spoiler. Great looking car, but it had issues. I didnt like the way it drove and handled, and the power was way down. Engine mounts were wrong, brakes were manual and poor. Block was a 66, with a mix of aftermarket parts. But it was a cool car and I had to figure what I wanted the car to end up like.

Like everyone, I had to be honest about what would be right for me, and then plan the build. You have to make some honest/drastic decisions and then get on and do it. I had a car of no particular historic value, and no documented history, and someone had been modifying it before I got it. So I was happy to push on and build a more modern and comfortable street car, and build the engine and drive train to increase power, reliability, and fun factor. I made some stupid mistakes, and had to do some things twice over, but I think I am on the right track now. The best thing about this whole restomod thing is the options and the hardware that is available to make it real.
You want factory look? - Production line perfect? Great, there is a whole bunch of reproduction parts and plently of suppliers to make it possible.
Protouring? Go for it, mild or wild.
The limits are only what your wallet can bear, and the time and ideas to make it happen.
I really like the forums for ideas and opinions, but at the end of the day it is your car, your money and time, and your dream. The value in forums, for me, is the great information from people who have tried and succeeded in doing what you want to do, with information on cost, difficulty, and other options. I am not the big expert on engineering, mechanical work or anything really, but I have experience in rebuilding a 68 Camaro, inside and out, and a 396 BBC. At the moment I am still figuring out what needs to go from the car, on the basis that if it doesnt work properly, or is reducing the safety of driving, it is gone. I would be happy to discuss that further, and get some opinions on what I have got going on in the next rebuild, starting late January 2012. I have all the parts and componenets being assembled now, ready for shipping to Australia. Not sure it will be that interesting until it is assembled and tested, but, I am sure a few guys will be considering some of the things I am doing, so maybe there could be some value.

Les

 

Great info guys. I am hoping to get my long lost love out of storage soon.( maybe bring her home before the end of the year) I can't wait! I have decided not to worry much about number matching stuff. Just going to have fun with it.

 

Good choice clerkday! I re-read your original post and you have a running 350 in it now right? You are good to go. Clean it, change the fluids, tune it, service the brakes, check the tires, and your on the road.

Enjoy the car for the driving! You have a great car right now.