No keys
#1
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,353
No keys
The kid I bought my project 93 off of pulled a dumb move. His power window went bad on the drivers side. Instead of replacing the window motor he swapped the whole door. I guess since the new door came with a key he tossed the old key. He seem to forget he still needed a key for the Glove box, back hatch and passenger door.
Obviously I can open the passengers door but I can not open the hatch or the glove box (yes it is locked). If I get a cylinder out of one of these places I can take it to a lock smith and he can make me a key and give me a new cylinder for the drivers door. Ironically the car has a working FOB so I do not really need a door key. So the question is which cylinder would be the easiest to remove? Has anyone dismantled locked glove box or hatch? I hate to tear the door panel off and then find out 6 screws on the glove box or the rear hatch would have worked.
Obviously I can open the passengers door but I can not open the hatch or the glove box (yes it is locked). If I get a cylinder out of one of these places I can take it to a lock smith and he can make me a key and give me a new cylinder for the drivers door. Ironically the car has a working FOB so I do not really need a door key. So the question is which cylinder would be the easiest to remove? Has anyone dismantled locked glove box or hatch? I hate to tear the door panel off and then find out 6 screws on the glove box or the rear hatch would have worked.
#3
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,353
You had to go there. I wear 14 EEEE shoe and I have the hands to match. I was hoping there was a glove box trick, the kind that don't show up in the manuals.
#4
Takes just a few minutes to remove the rear center panel and drill out the two pop-rivets on the hatch cylinder mount. Easy to replace them with bolts later. Glove box has only 3 screws but they are hidden when it's closed.
Oops, you would have to crawl inside to reach the taillight nuts...
Another thought.... you can probably see the hex heads of the two screws holding the glove box striker plate. You might use a needle nose pliers to remove them if they aren't too tight.
Oops, you would have to crawl inside to reach the taillight nuts...
Another thought.... you can probably see the hex heads of the two screws holding the glove box striker plate. You might use a needle nose pliers to remove them if they aren't too tight.
Last edited by GaryDoug; 01-05-2018 at 09:23 PM.
#6
Takes just a few minutes to remove the rear center panel and drill out the two pop-rivets on the hatch cylinder mount. Easy to replace them with bolts later. Glove box has only 3 screws but they are hidden when it's closed.
Oops, you would have to crawl inside to reach the taillight nuts...
Another thought.... you can probably see the hex heads of the two screws holding the glove box striker plate. You might use a needle nose pliers to remove them if they aren't too tight.
Oops, you would have to crawl inside to reach the taillight nuts...
Another thought.... you can probably see the hex heads of the two screws holding the glove box striker plate. You might use a needle nose pliers to remove them if they aren't too tight.
#8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,353
I looked at the glove box and mine is very tight, I crawled in the back and could not figure out how to pop the hatch. SO I told myself to stop being lazy and I took the door panel off and popped out the cylinder. I left the hard to reach clip attached and just popped out the rod. Whole process took less then 10 minute.
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
#9
I want to apologize about the mistake I made in describing the glove box screws. While viewing some old photos, I remembered that the 3 hinge screws are not hidden, but in plain sight on the bottom. Use a 9/32 nut driver. Again, sorry.
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