LT1/LT4 Tech 1993-1997

transmission problems?

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  #11  
Old 11-30-2009, 12:35 PM
aaron_Z28's Avatar
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Originally Posted by torque_is_good
coming from someone who just rebuilt his 4L60E, it doesn't sound good to me. (hey, that rhymed)

Anyway, as you are cruising along at 45mph and gradually press the accellerator it does not slip at all?????? You have immediate power?????
i used to have immediate power.
now the rpms go up to 6.5k and doesnt shift until i let off the throttle or it just decides to shift. i can still feel the shift kit. when it does shift they are firm and it kits the car sideways and such as it used to. it just takes twenty years for it to shift.
 
  #12  
Old 12-01-2009, 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by aaron_Z28
i used to have immediate power.
now the rpms go up to 6.5k and doesnt shift until i let off the throttle or it just decides to shift. i can still feel the shift kit. when it does shift they are firm and it kits the car sideways and such as it used to. it just takes twenty years for it to shift.
That's called slipping and eventually you won't have 3rd and 4th gear. Your tranny fluid will then overheat and take on the look of dirty motor oil. I'm not quite sure what you mean by "feeling" the shift kit? Yes, when the tranny is well and a shift kit installed, it will shift quicker as opposed to a sedan where gradual shifts are desired (and not as good for the tranny either) But, the comfort of a gradual disengagement of a gear is worth the minimal reduction in tranny life for non performance cars. Also, those type of cars tend to be driven less aggressively.

Anyway, back to you. I'd start looking around for someone who can rebuild a 4L60E. Prepare yourself for the inevitable and stop denying what you already suspect. If you only have bolt ons or a mild cam or plans just for mild mods then a stock rebuild will be fine. if you plan on thrashing the car at the track then you need to upgrade the tranny which translates to $$$$$$$$$$. Yes, I had mine rebuilt for $700 and yes, they had to do it twice (2nd time on warranty)but it works fine. If you shop around, you can probably find someone to take it out and replace it for $500-$600 and that includes tranny fluid. Or, do it yourself. if you have LT headers and an ORY like I do, it is so easy to drop the tranny. Yes, it takes a little time, yes you must be strong like bull; but it's doable as long as you can get the car up really high. Oh, and since you are there, you may as well slap on 2 new U joints and change the diff fluid. (don't forget the positraction additive)

EDIT: I just read your sig. Your car is basically stock so a stock rebuild will be fine. I can't speak for how difficult it will be to drop the tranny with the stock Y pipe and manifolds but it was duck soup with the headers and ORY.
 

Last edited by torque_is_good; 12-01-2009 at 06:59 AM.
  #13  
Old 12-01-2009, 12:25 PM
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well there is a local shop around here.
ill take it to them.
they use jasper rebuilt transmissions and engines.
pretty reliable.
i dont really care much for the shift kit anyway.
im sure the car is quick without it. haha

i really need to get posi and add some 3.42 gears or something.
as of right now im pretty sure it has 2.73 gears.
 
  #14  
Old 12-01-2009, 12:58 PM
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Two thing you can do:
1) Keep talkingabout it do nothing
2) Fix the problem and end discussion
3) Modify engine to rev up to 8000 RPM
 
  #15  
Old 12-02-2009, 12:08 AM
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thats three things just saying.

also im a 19 year old unemployed student.
its will be sitting this winter so thats when and if ill do any work to it that will be when.

i have a whole list of stuff that needs fixed.
 
  #16  
Old 12-02-2009, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by aaron_Z28
thats three things just saying.

also im a 19 year old unemployed student.
its will be sitting this winter so thats when and if ill do any work to it that will be when.

i have a whole list of stuff that needs fixed.
I gather you live with your folks?

If so, if you have a garage will they mind to have your car in it for 2 months?

Next, go to the local junk yard and get yourself qty 4 15 inch or larger steel wheels. Who cares if they match. You will be jacking up your car and laying the steel wheel flat under all 4 tires. That is step one.

Then, go to Home Depot, get some lumber and make yourself some some small "platforms" that you can place your jack as well as the steel wheels on top. Then, one at a time, you place your jack on a platform, and jack the front (which is already on a steel wheel) and place a platform under each front steel wheel. Now your front tires are sitting again inside the steel wheel and the front is up about 18-24 inches. Repeat procedure for the rear and then repeat again for the front where you now double up on the platforms and get the car about 3 feet up.

Now you can really work on it and take your time. One of the biggest hassles about working on cars yourself is most don't have the tools or facilities needed to make it easier. It's still doable for the occasional mechanic. Set a goal to get the car lifted in 1 day. Then, when you do have it jacked up you can check off 1 step as being done and call it a day. Don't rush.
 
  #17  
Old 12-02-2009, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by torque_is_good
I gather you live with your folks?

If so, if you have a garage will they mind to have your car in it for 2 months?

Next, go to the local junk yard and get yourself qty 4 15 inch or larger steel wheels. Who cares if they match. You will be jacking up your car and laying the steel wheel flat under all 4 tires. That is step one.

Then, go to Home Depot, get some lumber and make yourself some some small "platforms" that you can place your jack as well as the steel wheels on top. Then, one at a time, you place your jack on a platform, and jack the front (which is already on a steel wheel) and place a platform under each front steel wheel. Now your front tires are sitting again inside the steel wheel and the front is up about 18-24 inches. Repeat procedure for the rear and then repeat again for the front where you now double up on the platforms and get the car about 3 feet up.

Now you can really work on it and take your time. One of the biggest hassles about working on cars yourself is most don't have the tools or facilities needed to make it easier. It's still doable for the occasional mechanic. Set a goal to get the car lifted in 1 day. Then, when you do have it jacked up you can check off 1 step as being done and call it a day. Don't rush.
you gathered correctly.
and thanks for the advice.
my income will be better in january so ill end up doing a lot of work.
suspension
tires/wheels/brakes
engine work
cosmetics

while im doing this can you give me some links to look at for the the things i listed.
or tell me what you have done and how you like it.

my goal is 450 to 500 horses and the suspension to hold it.
 
  #18  
Old 12-02-2009, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by aaron_Z28
you gathered correctly.
and thanks for the advice.
my income will be better in january so ill end up doing a lot of work.
suspension
tires/wheels/brakes
engine work
cosmetics

while im doing this can you give me some links to look at for the the things i listed.
or tell me what you have done and how you like it.

my goal is 450 to 500 horses and the suspension to hold it.
my 95Z is pretty basic stuff with a CAI, pacesetter LT's, ORY, Magnaflow, tune.

The car is plenty. I've built and broken other cars but this is just the cruise around town, let junior drive it too car (that's why there is plenty of power)

If you really need to go to 450-500 HP is that WHP or crank? If WHP, prepare for spending serious dollars on everything. If this is your daily driver I wouldn't suggest it. If it's going to be a track car, then go for it. If that is the case, and it were me, I'd just throw a 100 shot in it till it breaks (it will) and then build the motor, suspension and drivetrain from the bottom up. Plan on spending over $15,000 even if you do a lot yourself. Building a car right takes patience, time and $$$$$$$.

As for links, there are lots of threads in here about heads and cam, nitrous, suspension etc etc.
 
  #19  
Old 12-02-2009, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by torque_is_good
my 95Z is pretty basic stuff with a CAI, pacesetter LT's, ORY, Magnaflow, tune.

The car is plenty. I've built and broken other cars but this is just the cruise around town, let junior drive it too car (that's why there is plenty of power)

If you really need to go to 450-500 HP is that WHP or crank? If WHP, prepare for spending serious dollars on everything. If this is your daily driver I wouldn't suggest it. If it's going to be a track car, then go for it. If that is the case, and it were me, I'd just throw a 100 shot in it till it breaks (it will) and then build the motor, suspension and drivetrain from the bottom up. Plan on spending over $15,000 even if you do a lot yourself. Building a car right takes patience, time and $$$$$$$.

As for links, there are lots of threads in here about heads and cam, nitrous, suspension etc etc.
yeah i mean at crank.
it will be a daily driver.
haha
 
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