LT1/LT4 Tech 1993-1997

replaced engine now a lot of codes

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Old 10-24-2013, 06:47 AM
camarojunkie97's Avatar
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Default replaced engine now a lot of codes

Been a while since last post. Last time I was trying to figure out why engine had overloaded with fuel and locked up. Been a few months but finally replaced engine and my fears are back.
I was having a cylinder 6 misfire when i just dropped this 70k used engine in, which apparently the code I had before my last engine locked up. I knew it wasnt a spark issue because I had a tester connected to the wire and plug and they all looked good. So I assumed injector. I used the pinout diagram and checked all injector grounds to pcm and they were all with in 1 ohm +/- .03. I started with a test light and seen that i had power to injectors with key on but the pink wire that runs to the injectors was also grounding out when I put test light from positive of battery to hot on injector side (I was checking for short). I never could find where it was grounding so I temporarily ran a fused hot wire from the pink injector wires to a power just to see if it ran better. I used a noyd (if I spelled that correctly)and they were all flashing while engine was running like they were supposed to and I don't have a injector 6 misfire code now.
I let the car run for about 20 min at idle with a few revs in between to get hot to check coolant and all. Everything seemed ok but smelt a little rich.
While driving in today its flashing and I have several codes. P1441, p0300, p0174, p0403, p0151 and p0122 only code I can vouch for is egr which I did not hook up because I was going to have it tuned out.
any help is appreciated. I know its a long thread but I tried to be a little detailed so people knew what I done
 
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Old 10-24-2013, 07:57 AM
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Never use a standard test light to check electronic. The lights themselves draw too much power. They car fry that drivers the run the injectors. Only use a "computer type" voltmeter or a injector noid. Performance Tool NOID and IAC Light Set — 10-Pc. Set, Model# W89501 | Fuel Line Tools| Northern Tool + Equipment

Did you fry anything? I have no idea but you should keep it in mind.
 
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Old 10-24-2013, 08:16 AM
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I dont think I did. Runs fine at an idle. Just slight miss every few seconds. Had a few backfires this morning. I dont feel like leaving it run to long. Feel like im going to break some thing. I dont smell gas in the oil but my sniffer has been known to not work occasionally. Lol. Guy here said smells like old oil to him which was fresh a few days ago. I assume im just flushing old oil which I plan on changing again once this is solved.
Drive em in tow em home seems to be my moto haha.
Would one code cause others or any of them linked to each other. Like say the tps code cause one bank lean or would that cause both?
Would the bad o2 code cause the tps to go bad. I would assume not but just trying to think of whats happening.
Would a vacuum leak cause just one bank also? Things are hard to check like this with just a voltmeter and a code reader. Trying to keep from borrowing a high tech scanner.
 
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Old 10-24-2013, 12:20 PM
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P0441: Oxygen sensor heater circuit malfunction (post-cat sensor)

P0300: Engine misfire detected

P0174: System too lean, right bank

P0403: EGR solenoid control circuit

P0151: Oxygen sensor circuit, low voltage (pre-cat, right bank)

P0122: TPS circuit, low input

The O2 sensor codes can cause your misfire. One is reading lean, so check for any type of leaks, vacuum and intake gaskets, or low fuel pressure can cause this.

TPS, check the wiring and the voltage to the sensor. Should read about 5 volts, on the gray and block wire. Then do it on the dark blue and black wire and gradually open the throttle. Should read around 4.5-5 volts.
 
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Old 10-26-2013, 12:06 PM
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I cleared codes and a few came back.
I switched the o2 sensor from one side to the other and it followed other side, so replaced it with a denso. Not sure how well of a brand they are but they didn't have delcos. Now I dont have a 0300 I have a 0306 which is cylinder 6. Found out that burnt a hole in the boot of new wire. Which sucks cause I have the aluminum boot covers over it. And I have headers on straight plug heads. So im not sure how im going to solve that from melting a new one wire boot.
Seems to run a bit better but won't drive it till I solve the misfire. Also is im reading yes and no on tps sensors that there are adjustments. The code hasnt came back on but I also replaced it a few months before I out engine in so its only got a few hundred miles on it. Also how do I check the voltage while its plugged in? Probe the back of the harmess?
 
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