New to the LT1
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October 2009 ROTM
October 2009 ROTM
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 10,560
From: Eastern PA,
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I would think twice about using a block or heads that have been through a hydro lock, or any internal part for that matter. I mean sure if it was a rare numbers matching engine but you are talking about a Lt1 you can buy running engines for $500. Heck I have a block in my garage that spun a rod bearing I would sell you for $50. I am sure you can find one around you in similar condition that have not been through the stress of a hydro lock. You could end up needing line bored, it is very unlikely but you could have a twisted block. A machinist would not know it unless he blue printed it. You are going to spend a lot of money building a 383 you don't want to put that money into a block that has been through that much stress, not when a block that has not been stressed in 50-100 bucks.
Last edited by Gorn; Nov 29, 2015 at 02:33 PM.
Tricky, only u can know if your up to rebuilding a engine from top to bottom. If u have never adjusted the vlvs before your better off w/used engine. If u have successfully adj the vlvs and understand how to measure the brg clearances w/plasti-gauge. Then u could be ok. Just to many new owners get way ahead of themselves and end up w/another junk engine that now cost them $5000. Too many new enthusiasts assume adj the vlvs is easy because more experienced owners can do it and encourage others to do it. Well it is fairly easy but if done wrong the engine will rapidly eat itself.
If u just want a motor then the B-body cars have an LT1 that will work and should be dirt cheap. Stay away from the 4.3 liter baby LT1 called the L99 though (but hey, they will work also). And OReilly's/AutoZone have LT1 remains for only $2200.
I guess what im saying is if u have never rebuilt an entire motor before then buy a replacement and learn engine building on your original block as u have the time and $$$.
As for rebuilding your block it needs to be pressure tested and some machine shops may not do this. U have to find a shop that can. Take your time and make sure u get what u want. U want it cleaned, pressure tested, decked or at least shaved, it should be decked square also, then bored.
Take your time and think it over before u make a large financial plunge.
If u just want a motor then the B-body cars have an LT1 that will work and should be dirt cheap. Stay away from the 4.3 liter baby LT1 called the L99 though (but hey, they will work also). And OReilly's/AutoZone have LT1 remains for only $2200.
I guess what im saying is if u have never rebuilt an entire motor before then buy a replacement and learn engine building on your original block as u have the time and $$$.
As for rebuilding your block it needs to be pressure tested and some machine shops may not do this. U have to find a shop that can. Take your time and make sure u get what u want. U want it cleaned, pressure tested, decked or at least shaved, it should be decked square also, then bored.
Take your time and think it over before u make a large financial plunge.
like these techs an been there them self guys are saying ,you got the car for free ,if its in good shape no matter what ,go with a block you know has not been through that ,I had it happen to mine an my block was still good ,as I did not get antifreeze in the oil,sold 100.00, had slow leak an was getting warm but not hot an never overheated,no broken parts ,I could have replace all the gaskets ,I think that what some guys fail to do is replace both head gaskets as well as intake , they ran that engine way to long an hot , ebay long block 383 under ,1995 Camaro lt1 block $2500.00 make an offer about 365 hp 400tlbs all forged parts ,that could be the right move ,custom built 1951herb is the seller with 100% feedback,that saves alot of money an reuse all you components ,check it out reman to is as good as new saves you time $ an you still get to do alot of work,its probley the way I should have went to keep my build a lot simpler ,
Last edited by 95 camaro 406; Dec 2, 2015 at 02:55 PM.
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