Vent plugged perhaps.

 

the vent on the top of the trans???

 

well i think this trans is shot WTF i hate this car its doing the same thing it was doing before

 

It might not be a coincidence. Remember in your other thread when you were messing with the solenoids, then you came to the conclusion that your trans was shot? I had asked how you knew for sure it was the trans and not a solenoid or the circuitry (testing them with the car's wiring, not bench testing). I don't recall you ever saying that you checked your wiring to make sure the computer is still sending a signal to the solenoid(s), or that they are in fact getting a ground. That would be a pisser, eh?
And yeah, the vent on top of the trans.

 

yesterday i drove the car prob 20 miles no problem today i fix the leak fill her with fluid drive about 10 miles and its still good then try to go to the store about an hr later and its messed up...

when i tested the solenoids all i did was connect them to a battery and they clicked as for the wiring i checked it with a test light and both plugs were getting power... i dont really know another way of testing that stuff (mechanical is my thing i can fix anything mechanical... electrical on the other hand is a foreign language to me)

 

Could it have anything to do with the vats system I don't have an ignition key but the engine starts and runs fine... or maybe the torque converter

 

No, the VATS would keep the car from starting. The VATS has nothing to do with the transmission.

I am not sure what would cause you to spew transmission fluid out the dipstick, unless you overfilled it or the vent was plugged as Camaro69 said. But your other issues with the transmission working and then not working sound like an electrical problem to me.

I say that because you stated that the car was driving fine one trip, then on another trip the transmission won't go into reverse or other odd problems crop up.

Solenoids need both a power source and a ground to activate properly. Checking just the power connections for the solenoid doesn't verify if the ground is present or good. I am not positive, but I believe that the solenoids in the 4L60E all use the same power source and switch the grounds on and off to activate and deactivate the valves (if I am mistaken, I apologize, but I am not a transmission guy).

I would start by locating all of the engine and chassis grounds on the car and make sure that they are clean and making really good contacts. Missing or poor grounds can cause a plethora of problems on modern cars. Corrorsion on a ground lug can allow and then not allow a good ground, depending on several factors (temperature, humidity, vibrations, road salt, dirt, grime, etc).

I am not certain, but I think that shbox.com has some wiring diagrams for the 4L60E and chassis. I would check there to see if there is a listing of the engine and chassis ground locations and start inspecting each of those.

 

so i was looking through shbox couldnt find the grounds but i did find this http://shbox.com/1/harness_connector_faces.htm im gunna go through and see what i can find

wait a min the new trans has the TCC PWM pin in the trans but the trans came out of a 94 jimmy (prod date was 04/94)

 

I can't say about the truck, if there could have been a mid-year change. 4/94 is already half way into the production year. But, the difference between the PWM and non-PWM is with the lockup converter. Your non PWM car won't lockup the converter on a PWM trans, but the rest of the trans will/should operate the same. That's why I told you to watch out for the "PWM" stamping on the pump housing. TransGo makes a reprogramming kit (4L60E-HD2), which also converts the PWM feature to operate like the old non-PWM. However, that's not your problem, but it is a solution if all you can find is another trans like you have. That is....unless your car accidentally falls off a cliff!

 

at this point in thinking im going to look for a newer car with a blown motor and swap in my motor