LT1 to LT4 input please
#11
I went balanced forged 383. But I went with 11.4 comp. for pump gas and I can spray nitrous in the future to attain that power goal. I could have done a lower compression piston and attained that power goal with a turbo or supercharger. It's up to you but I like my stock cam because the power is made at 2800 plus instead of a big cam that needs high rpm all the time which where's the parts out and sucks the oil pan dry, after that the oil pressure switch shuts the fuel pump off!
Good luck, do your homework and most of all have fun!!!!
Good luck, do your homework and most of all have fun!!!!
Last edited by CraZ28; 03-28-2010 at 05:18 PM.
#13
thats way lower than what i had thought. this build wont happen untill i get back from afgan so i have a lot of time to think. So to CraZ28, the bigger cam can eventually do damage? what if i just stuck with the LT4 hot cam and then used a turbo for the Top end?
#14
Well, sounds like you have a lot of money? A hotcam is a great cam. So is your stock cam. You would be suprised at the quality of your GM parts. And the cam is usually matched to the heads so someone like LE would be able to match a cam to head package and maybe put a 383 rotaiting assembly together for you. But as you have read in my build I kept my stock 58cc, steam piped, lightweight 1.50/1.94 valved heads and stock cam for my 383. And I am VERY pleased with the usable power and drivability. It has a lot of low end muscle which you loose with a bigger cam. I just tuned and used bosch 36# injectors and it runs GREAT! The o2's still monitor air/fuel and with my stock exhaust it builds more torque with the backpressure which you loose when you open up the exhaust. I just changed my break-in oil and I'm planning on getting the hell out-a-dodge tomarrow cause the Marines are getting ready to light this place up!!!!!!!!!
Last edited by CraZ28; 03-28-2010 at 07:46 PM.
#15
I have a decent income right now. Army takes good care of us lol. So what about the drive train? I know that the transmission is only rated to like 400 HP or somewhere in that area, and im sure that the rear end isnt going to take that kind of power.
#16
Well I still have my original trans and rearend but upgraded to 373. It's heavy duty from the factory. And I have 285/40 run-flats on the rear, it pulls like a top-fuel funny car! But if you want to put slicks on the rear and tear it up at the track than go for it and replace/upgrade the weakest link!
Last edited by CraZ28; 03-28-2010 at 07:44 PM.
#18
That's why I bought one of the 3500 cars made in 1993 with a T-56 manual trans! It's pretty much a four speed with two over-drives. And I got my run-flats used for twenty a piece! And yes the spike strips do not affect them even though the state troopers here carry surface to air missles in their trunks! I don't run!
#19
heres a couple places to look at besides summit and jegs.
http://www.stranoparts.com/
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1993-1997-GM-F-Body/
http://www.performabuilt.com/About2008.html
http://www.ststurbo.com/universal_turbo_systems
http://www.forcedinductions.com/
http://www.stranoparts.com/
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1993-1997-GM-F-Body/
http://www.performabuilt.com/About2008.html
http://www.ststurbo.com/universal_turbo_systems
http://www.forcedinductions.com/
#20
i'm not even sure what to say here...wow.
but anyway...build a solid bottom end 383 with forged internals. do NOT use a hotcam. talk to lloyd elliott or advanced induction about matching a cam with heads to meet your goals. build a tranny to handle the power, swap your gears to 3:73, work on your suspension, then start saving for a stronger rear end
but anyway...build a solid bottom end 383 with forged internals. do NOT use a hotcam. talk to lloyd elliott or advanced induction about matching a cam with heads to meet your goals. build a tranny to handle the power, swap your gears to 3:73, work on your suspension, then start saving for a stronger rear end
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block, computer, damage, differance, difference, engine, harness, hose, lt1, lt4, steam, troubleshooting, whats, wiring, work