LT1/LT4 Tech 1993-1997

crank strength

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  #11  
Old 02-16-2011, 02:41 PM
ChandlerMotorsports's Avatar
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Originally Posted by 383Stro
Nope... no need to get aluminum rods unless you plan to go with a lightweight crank and then have the assembly balanced to spin 10,000+ rpms in which case the opti would be useless.
The short of it is, you start pushing the limits of a stock bottom end upwards of 400hp. Nitrous definitely speeds the process. Good eagle h-beams and a eagle crank are the cheapest option and their 4340 stuff is rated at 750, if you go with the l19 bolts you will have to clearance into the h20 jackets at the bottom of the block and fill it with water jacket filler (HARD BLOCK). A shortfill will leave plenty of room for normal cooling. Be careful who clearances the block for the rotating assembly, the lt1 block doesn't leave a lot of room for mistakes. I am a little curious because you say the block is bored to a 4.030, so what pistons and rods are you using presently? Hypereutecic? 6 inch rods? Or is this in the future?
You could run at 10,000 if you want to see what an optispark looks like blown into a million pieces.
 
  #12  
Old 02-18-2011, 11:54 PM
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30 over forged pistons, alum maybe, and H beam rods the reason I want to lower the compresion is in the future I would like to put some form of forced induction on. I have not put the engine together yet trying to get my bearings on which way to go. I have a friend who built the top end of a 94Z and put 425 rwhp just motor on the stock bottom. I would like to put the bottle on the car for now for a little stang remover.
 

Last edited by carguylt1; 02-18-2011 at 11:58 PM.
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