LT1/LT4 Tech 1993-1997

crank strength

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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 09:48 AM
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Default crank strength

I have a 95 LT1 30 over, mild cam, 2.02/ 1.60 valves P&P, gasket match the intake, elec. water pump, moroso cold, air no a/c. thinking of putting on the bottle. How much will the stoke crank hold?
 
Old Feb 5, 2011 | 11:35 AM
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i wouldn't go bigger than 150 shot. 125 should be safe...notice i said SHOULD. don't come yelling at me if it blows up! haha. but there's lots of guys running 125 shots on the stock crank
 
Old Feb 6, 2011 | 12:53 AM
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I plan to balance everything, and drop the compresion would that help to go bigger?
 

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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 07:48 AM
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no. an engine is only as strong as its weakest component
 
Old Feb 8, 2011 | 10:03 PM
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I know this but if I take strain off that component it should help should it not?
 
Old Feb 9, 2011 | 10:51 PM
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Dont worry too much about the crank...my money is on the rods to go first, build the short block.
 
Old Feb 10, 2011 | 07:45 AM
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I plan on putting in H-beam rods and forged pistons. would it matter if they are aluminum?
 
Old Feb 10, 2011 | 08:17 AM
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dropping compression is something you do for boost. nitrous doesn't work in the same way and actually does better in higher compression applications. here you want to worry mostly about avoiding detonation. I would be more concerned about your pistons if things arent tuned correctly than I would be about your crank. I have seen people break rods/whatever on juice, but you are way more likely to burn a hole in one of your pistons
 
Old Feb 10, 2011 | 09:24 PM
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Nope... no need to get aluminum rods unless you plan to go with a lightweight crank and then have the assembly balanced to spin 10,000+ rpms in which case the opti would be useless.
The short of it is, you start pushing the limits of a stock bottom end upwards of 400hp. Nitrous definitely speeds the process. Good eagle h-beams and a eagle crank are the cheapest option and their 4340 stuff is rated at 750, if you go with the l19 bolts you will have to clearance into the h20 jackets at the bottom of the block and fill it with water jacket filler (HARD BLOCK). A shortfill will leave plenty of room for normal cooling. Be careful who clearances the block for the rotating assembly, the lt1 block doesn't leave a lot of room for mistakes. I am a little curious because you say the block is bored to a 4.030, so what pistons and rods are you using presently? Hypereutecic? 6 inch rods? Or is this in the future?
 
Old Feb 11, 2011 | 07:42 AM
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i see lots of guys running 420+rwhp on the stock bottom end and having no issues
 



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