holly smokes wow must be made of gold. that would be over kill on the plugs big time. are u going to race only. i think thats what these are for if there that much. dang two miles, that close can u feel it. the spouts we seen were really shinny and long also only lasted a few minutes. the anti theft im not sure on. never had a reason to read that in the book. need to see if your getting power to the coil. what are you using to check for power test lite or ohm/volt meter?

 

Nah, im not going to make it full race for a while. Gotta put the roll cage in it first, then the LS9. But i have a Volt/Ohm meter and a test light that i need to find. One of the other electrical instructors told me to stick a wire into the ignition wire and ground it to the coil to see if it sparks or not. Then go from there.

 

us the volt meter to check the voltage to the wires on the coil. key off, uplug the coil, turn key on and check the volts on each wire. turn key off and plug back in. do the same with the ignition module. if your not getting power to the coil (pink wire on mine) then its in the ignition (fuse, wiring, ignition switch) not the opti end of it. the ignition module gets it power from the coil i think on mine.

 

Just for the record, the LT1 engine management system is a bit different than that used in most other engines. The clocking sensors (CPS, KPS, etc) in the LT1 engines are incorporated the optispark distributor and are not individually replaceable items, so a fouled up opti will prevent the engine from running. On OBDII engines (1996 & up) an individual crank position sensor was added to detect misfires via variation in crankshaft velocity, this item required a different front cover. If this sensor goes bad, the engine should still run, but the MIL will be forced on. Also, the PCM runs the engine on open loop during start up and until the O2 sensors come up to the proper temp. O2 sensors are ignored. In open loop operation the PCM relies on predefined fuel and spark maps; however, it does look at the ECT, IAT, MAP, and TPS.

 

hay pete, first time ive had a chance to say hello from the west coast. let me know if were on the right track. i think hes trying to check everything else before digging ito the opti. its supposed to be new or recently new. im thinking the guy he bought it from may have replaced the cap and rotor only. waiting to see if the coil is getting power from the ignition,. i know, i know that should have been checked first. read alot of your posts and have found many to be helpful. thanks.

 

The problem with the opti is that it performs many functions that usually are done by individual sensors. Changing just the cap and rotor usually does not accomplish much as the real problem is corrosion attacking the internal components.
Assuming there is no spark you can verify that the ignition coil receives power from the ignition switch via fuse #11(under hood panel), this is a pink wire going to the coil connector. Also the opti needs power, and power to the opti is provided by the PCM. There is an ignition system test connector inserted between the PCM and the opti. Open this connector and probe back to the PCM, there should be power coming from the PCM on terminal C (red wire). Also check the ignition coil module mounted on the driver side head. This module is controlled by the PCM and provides the ground connection when the coil is fired.

 

I think i may have found it, A guy who worked at a Chevy delership here in nashville for 30 some years said that the person who last put the opti-spark in put it in wrong and that little rod thingy used to tell where the crank is over time has worked itself out.

 

good deal so is it running yet?

 

no, i have to take the opti system apart

 

oh boy, its not to bad. only took a few hours the second time i did it. took longer to replace plugs and wires. wires on the pasanger side are the pits. u will need to pull the belt, air cleaner unit including the tube that goes down by the radiator, water pump and the harmonic balancer to get the opti out. need a ballance puller. i have a older puller and didnt want to buy a new one so i used a small 1/4 drive deep socket on the end between the puller shaft and the crank through the bolt hole, and pulled the balancer and the hub at once. keep track of the arrow on the balancer and make sure it goes on the same way it came off. if #1 is top dead center it should be pointing up. keep track of were the opti is, it only goes on one way but its easier to get back in if you know were the rotor is at when you take it out. i think theres a sticky on the site for this so have a look. if not should be able to download off the net. let me know how it goes.