Crank But No Start
#31
Since you guys are fighting over this ill explain a bit better.
Its a 94 Z28. The WHOLE Opti system was supposedly changed, all but plugs. The coil was rusted so i doubted it was changed so i just went out and bought a new one (only $20). The module for that is $80 so i wanted to hold off of it to make sure thats what it was first. Plugs are $6 a peice.
When i crank the check engine light seems to flash every time i hit #1 cylinder. My instructor said that it could have todo with the key lock or the anti theft system. The guy i bought it off of has a 94 Mustang as well and if he doesnt unlock it just right it will not start.
And Specter, ive already stopped ignoring him.
Craby, it isnt throwing any codes.
Its a 94 Z28. The WHOLE Opti system was supposedly changed, all but plugs. The coil was rusted so i doubted it was changed so i just went out and bought a new one (only $20). The module for that is $80 so i wanted to hold off of it to make sure thats what it was first. Plugs are $6 a peice.
When i crank the check engine light seems to flash every time i hit #1 cylinder. My instructor said that it could have todo with the key lock or the anti theft system. The guy i bought it off of has a 94 Mustang as well and if he doesnt unlock it just right it will not start.
And Specter, ive already stopped ignoring him.
Craby, it isnt throwing any codes.
Last edited by Ford_Nova; 04-02-2009 at 12:11 PM.
#32
try unhooking the map if you have one. if its on the intake manifold its like mine if its between the aircleaner and the throttle body its not. 93 book says if its malfuntioning the car will turn over and either start and die or not at all. recomends to disconect, then it will run on defalt value. still reading and this is the first thing in the book it comes to with that problem.
to bad your so far away. i have a used module that worked fine when i took it out last month. could try it and see if thats the probem. keep it in the car just in case i need it.
to bad your so far away. i have a used module that worked fine when i took it out last month. could try it and see if thats the probem. keep it in the car just in case i need it.
Last edited by craby; 04-02-2009 at 01:38 PM. Reason: add on
#33
I have both wires in front of the throtle body unhooked. One is for the MAF and the othe rim not sure, might be the MAP. But i dont know, i finally found the "Crank but will not start" diagnosis on alldata so ill try printing that out and looking it up. And if it wasnt for autozones "no electrical return" program id buy me one and see if that was it.
#35
95slvr, are you saying the "upgraded" opti has the coil built in? The coil on my 92 LT1 is mounted on the front of the pass. side head. The opti was upgraded in 1994.5, and the way it sounds from F.N.'s simple coil change story, he must have the old style.
Ford_Nova, if you haven't tried already, I would prime the throttle body by carefully pouring a little fuel down its throat. If it fires up momentarily, you have a fuel supply problem.
Ford_Nova, if you haven't tried already, I would prime the throttle body by carefully pouring a little fuel down its throat. If it fires up momentarily, you have a fuel supply problem.
#36
I know im getting fuel, i checked the valve stem thing in the back and it always squirts out. Ive taken the coil wire off, and tried to see if it would spark...nothing. I just changed the ignition module and it still wont start. Ive spraied ether down it and still nothing, so it has to be soemthing with the ignition. Im not getting spark from the coil, and it all ran about a month before i got it so soemthing somewhere has happend.
#37
I am calling a fuel pressure regulator on this one. I would actually go to the point of testing your sensors will all of the specs on them that have already been listed in this forum, before you start just replacing parts and hope it fixes it
#38
Just "taking the coil wire off" won't show a spark. Do you have a timing light? Clip it on the coil wire while it's still connected, and crank the engine to see if you have spark. If you can't reach the coil wire, clip it on a plug wire.
#39
On last break i printed out the "crank but will not start" diagram and it says to...check the ECT and actual engine temp sensors, and TPS. Then i have both the DTC 15 and 21 chart to check, what things should read, and what to check.
If we dont have another tornado like we did earlier ill get out and see if i can mess with it.
If we dont have another tornado like we did earlier ill get out and see if i can mess with it.
#40
keep your old module for a spare for sure. check to make sure you have juice to the coil. one of the guys may know what the voltage should be and which terminal to check for juice to and from the coil for your year. my book calls for a white wire to the ignition module to be the power to the module. it shows a pink wire to the coil from the ignition. im thinking if your tach is working when you turn it over you are getting power to the coil. it does go into checking the injector power and if its getting to them. man i am at a loss and need to back out on this one and let the more electronicly educated guys on here take this one on. im feeling a little small and real bad the module did not work. really thought that would be it. i am interested in how it turns out so ill keep checking the thead. im rootin for ya.