95 engine into 94 Camaro
#1
06-20-2010, 12:16 AM
95 engine into 94 Camaro
Hello all!
I have a 1994 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 equipped with an LT1 motor mated to a 4L60E transmission. The motor was blown and coolant leaked into the 5 and 7 cylinder I believe. Anyway, at the time I was driving it, the temperatures were extremely hot (270 is I believe the top of the red zone). I assume this ruined the seals in the transmission. Also, I the head gasket obviously blew. I think this can all be attributed to doing routine maintenance and flushing the cooling system. At the time, I had never heard of reverse flow cooling. The car had some problems after that, including the need for a new opti-spark(coolant probably trickled onto it from flushing or bleeding the air valves).The heater core was also bypassed because of a severe coolant leak on the passenger side floor.
I was headed back to college and the damn thing wouldn't cool down. I stopped several times to fill it with water and grew more and more frustrated. The car could no longer withstand the abuse and eventually broke down.I was 19 at the time. That was nearly 10 years ago now.
Since then I have learned much more about cars, but I have never gotten rid of my Camaro. I'm sure you all know the feeling. I now have the chance to buy a replacement and wanted to ask for some advice.
I have pulled the engine and transmission from my 1994 Camaro. I first dropped the tranny and then removed the engine from the top. I have found another LT1 engine mated to a 4L60E transmission. I assume I don't need to mention that it is an automatic. If memory serves me, the transmission is simply connected (electrically) by one main plug at the top.
What I would like to know is:
The PCM and wiring harness are included from the 1995. Should I expect this to just plug it right into the 1994. In short, does anyone know the subtle wiring harness differences from 1994 to 1995. I don't want to splice things and end up frying the motor. I know they are basically the same but I don't need any "gotcha" differences.
Also, the engine has over 100,000 miles on it. What should I absolutely do before putting it in? I'm not looking to do a full rebuild, just the essentials. I should also mention that I won't do a rebuild on the motor I have because it sat for a very long time with no heads on and filled with water. Must have drained 2 or so gallons out. Hardly any rust, except the cylinder walls. I know I could just bore it out. Than my concern is whether or not I should have the heads decked and then get the block fluxed and have the tranny rebuilt. Money pit. I may end up just dropping the motor and transmission back in and selling it because the mice have gotten into it and the interior will need a lot of tlc. Of course that's BS because I've held onto it for 10 years and I'm obviously not selling.
Also, when I disassembled, I took the transmission off first and then took the engine out the top. I will probably wind up doing things the same way when I put the "new" motor in. I should also mention that I cut the fuel lines at the motor because I didn't know there was a quick disconnect tool. Could I just splice another length of line into it or do I need to buy a new one? I'm gonna try and get some pics on here soon. Let me know what you all think,
thank you for your time
-mh
I have a 1994 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 equipped with an LT1 motor mated to a 4L60E transmission. The motor was blown and coolant leaked into the 5 and 7 cylinder I believe. Anyway, at the time I was driving it, the temperatures were extremely hot (270 is I believe the top of the red zone). I assume this ruined the seals in the transmission. Also, I the head gasket obviously blew. I think this can all be attributed to doing routine maintenance and flushing the cooling system. At the time, I had never heard of reverse flow cooling. The car had some problems after that, including the need for a new opti-spark(coolant probably trickled onto it from flushing or bleeding the air valves).The heater core was also bypassed because of a severe coolant leak on the passenger side floor.
I was headed back to college and the damn thing wouldn't cool down. I stopped several times to fill it with water and grew more and more frustrated. The car could no longer withstand the abuse and eventually broke down.I was 19 at the time. That was nearly 10 years ago now.
Since then I have learned much more about cars, but I have never gotten rid of my Camaro. I'm sure you all know the feeling. I now have the chance to buy a replacement and wanted to ask for some advice.
I have pulled the engine and transmission from my 1994 Camaro. I first dropped the tranny and then removed the engine from the top. I have found another LT1 engine mated to a 4L60E transmission. I assume I don't need to mention that it is an automatic. If memory serves me, the transmission is simply connected (electrically) by one main plug at the top.
What I would like to know is:
The PCM and wiring harness are included from the 1995. Should I expect this to just plug it right into the 1994. In short, does anyone know the subtle wiring harness differences from 1994 to 1995. I don't want to splice things and end up frying the motor. I know they are basically the same but I don't need any "gotcha" differences.
Also, the engine has over 100,000 miles on it. What should I absolutely do before putting it in? I'm not looking to do a full rebuild, just the essentials. I should also mention that I won't do a rebuild on the motor I have because it sat for a very long time with no heads on and filled with water. Must have drained 2 or so gallons out. Hardly any rust, except the cylinder walls. I know I could just bore it out. Than my concern is whether or not I should have the heads decked and then get the block fluxed and have the tranny rebuilt. Money pit. I may end up just dropping the motor and transmission back in and selling it because the mice have gotten into it and the interior will need a lot of tlc. Of course that's BS because I've held onto it for 10 years and I'm obviously not selling.
Also, when I disassembled, I took the transmission off first and then took the engine out the top. I will probably wind up doing things the same way when I put the "new" motor in. I should also mention that I cut the fuel lines at the motor because I didn't know there was a quick disconnect tool. Could I just splice another length of line into it or do I need to buy a new one? I'm gonna try and get some pics on here soon. Let me know what you all think,
thank you for your time
-mh
#2
06-20-2010, 04:58 AM
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Tokeland, Washington
Posts: 21,645
as far as i know the wiring in both cars is the same. the opti harness for the vented opti is different so keep the distributor harness from the 95 that goes from there to the plug half way on the intake manifold. other than that they are both obd 1 with obd 2 plug so it should be a straight switch. check to make sure the tranny plugs are the same.
i would have the heads done if i were you. send em off to elliotts for a le1 job. lol at the least have them checked and the valves redone at a good machinist shop. if your gona tear it down that far, change the timing chain and the oil pan gasket. now again if your going that far pick up a cam thatll give you some extra kick.
you should be able to pick up a hose nipple that will hook the lines together. you will need to heat up the plastic so it doesnt break or crack when being done. i believe the intake manifolds are different, the 95 has a little better fuel delivery so use it if you have it. the fuel line hooks in more to the back of the motor but the lines will make it.
i would have the heads done if i were you. send em off to elliotts for a le1 job. lol at the least have them checked and the valves redone at a good machinist shop. if your gona tear it down that far, change the timing chain and the oil pan gasket. now again if your going that far pick up a cam thatll give you some extra kick.
you should be able to pick up a hose nipple that will hook the lines together. you will need to heat up the plastic so it doesnt break or crack when being done. i believe the intake manifolds are different, the 95 has a little better fuel delivery so use it if you have it. the fuel line hooks in more to the back of the motor but the lines will make it.
#3
06-20-2010, 02:12 PM
as far as i know the wiring in both cars is the same. the opti harness for the vented opti is different so keep the distributor harness from the 95 that goes from there to the plug half way on the intake manifold. other than that they are both obd 1 with obd 2 plug so it should be a straight switch. check to make sure the tranny plugs are the same.
i would have the heads done if i were you. send em off to elliotts for a le1 job. lol at the least have them checked and the valves redone at a good machinist shop. if your gona tear it down that far, change the timing chain and the oil pan gasket. now again if your going that far pick up a cam thatll give you some extra kick.
you should be able to pick up a hose nipple that will hook the lines together. you will need to heat up the plastic so it doesnt break or crack when being done. i believe the intake manifolds are different, the 95 has a little better fuel delivery so use it if you have it. the fuel line hooks in more to the back of the motor but the lines will make it.
i would have the heads done if i were you. send em off to elliotts for a le1 job. lol at the least have them checked and the valves redone at a good machinist shop. if your gona tear it down that far, change the timing chain and the oil pan gasket. now again if your going that far pick up a cam thatll give you some extra kick.
you should be able to pick up a hose nipple that will hook the lines together. you will need to heat up the plastic so it doesnt break or crack when being done. i believe the intake manifolds are different, the 95 has a little better fuel delivery so use it if you have it. the fuel line hooks in more to the back of the motor but the lines will make it.
I assume you were joking about the le1 job since that would be as much as the engine/ trans. It does seem like it would be a good idea, but if I was going to put that kind of money into it, I would probably look into getting a 383 stroker kit. I'm thinking the common wisdom is that if I think that 1200 gets me the engine and trans, I should budget another 1200 for misc. work before/ during/ after installation. Where can I get a good timing chain? Doesn't have to be top of the line, but I saw ones at rockauto for $20 and that can't be very good quality. Of course I don't want to get one from the stealer either. Is there any such thing as a pre-streched chain? I think of it like a chain saw- when you put on a new chain, you have to adjust it to compensate for it stretching. I assume a new timing chain does something similar and I never hear of that being adjusted...
I would think I can use an oil pan gasket such as fel pro as long as it isn't a crappy cork gasket. Any recommendations for a beefier cam? I seem to remember something about a "hot" cam from back in the day. I don't mind doing the work to install something like that but I would just be concerned about screwing up timing and compatibility problems relating to horsepower. Meaning, I don't want to install a cam that will bend a rod or screw up the lifters or something. In short, I would want a cam that would give me maximum power gain while keeping everything else stock, if that's possible.
If I can get a union for the fuel how would I heat the hose? Hair drier? Just to make it pliable? I'm not getting near that with a torch.
I was also thinking I would change the head gaskets. If I do that, do I need to buy a new set of bolts or are they reusable?
Sorry for all the questions, just have a lot to ask after all these years I guess,
Thanks again,
-mh
#4
06-20-2010, 02:39 PM
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Tokeland, Washington
Posts: 21,645
i use summit and jegs alot. gaskets and parts. you can easily check part application then get part number and see if its cheaper anywhere else. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LU...n/?prefilter=0
no prestreached timing chains. the lt1 pan gasket is one piece rubber,,, well flexable, not real sure what the heck there really made of. lol. check out elliotts website and see if anything interests you. compcams 503 is a good one thats similar to the max emissions freindly of lloyds, which is what i have. they work good with stock lt1 motors as long as you dont use the 1.6 rockers. if you do then the pushrods, valve springs and retainers need upgrading. after you decide if you are going with a lloyd elliotts cam, give lloyd a call before ordering and tell him what you have, he will have some great advice. yes you need new head bolts. at least thats what gm says.
no prestreached timing chains. the lt1 pan gasket is one piece rubber,,, well flexable, not real sure what the heck there really made of. lol. check out elliotts website and see if anything interests you. compcams 503 is a good one thats similar to the max emissions freindly of lloyds, which is what i have. they work good with stock lt1 motors as long as you dont use the 1.6 rockers. if you do then the pushrods, valve springs and retainers need upgrading. after you decide if you are going with a lloyd elliotts cam, give lloyd a call before ordering and tell him what you have, he will have some great advice. yes you need new head bolts. at least thats what gm says.
Last edited by craby; 06-20-2010 at 02:42 PM.
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