Water Leak Experts ?? ,, HeLP !!
#21
11-11-2009, 01:22 PM
its ok, just trying to help, and i wanna try and solve the problem.
Really there are NOT other components left other than all pipes being checked. Have you had a pressure test of system, pressurinze to 7psi and it should not decrease. If it dones you know something is defo leaking
Really there are NOT other components left other than all pipes being checked. Have you had a pressure test of system, pressurinze to 7psi and it should not decrease. If it dones you know something is defo leaking
#22
11-11-2009, 03:33 PM
it k man, well im out of suggestions now,
Ive asked a few peoples, y grandfather the old school mechanic basically told me the same stuff i've mentioned and you had checked. Anyway see how the test goes and keep me posted.
Oh btw do you reuse the throttle body when you swaped engines, and are the pipes intacked? Also the cooling pipe under manifold (if its ls1) may be at fault and pressure would still be ok. I presume you have check these already after changing head gaskets?
Ive asked a few peoples, y grandfather the old school mechanic basically told me the same stuff i've mentioned and you had checked. Anyway see how the test goes and keep me posted.
Oh btw do you reuse the throttle body when you swaped engines, and are the pipes intacked? Also the cooling pipe under manifold (if its ls1) may be at fault and pressure would still be ok. I presume you have check these already after changing head gaskets?
#23
11-14-2009, 12:31 AM
it k man, well im out of suggestions now,
Ive asked a few peoples, y grandfather the old school mechanic basically told me the same stuff i've mentioned and you had checked. Anyway see how the test goes and keep me posted.
Oh btw do you reuse the throttle body when you swaped engines, and are the pipes intacked? Also the cooling pipe under manifold (if its ls1) may be at fault and pressure would still be ok. I presume you have check these already after changing head gaskets?
Ive asked a few peoples, y grandfather the old school mechanic basically told me the same stuff i've mentioned and you had checked. Anyway see how the test goes and keep me posted.
Oh btw do you reuse the throttle body when you swaped engines, and are the pipes intacked? Also the cooling pipe under manifold (if its ls1) may be at fault and pressure would still be ok. I presume you have check these already after changing head gaskets?
people here & there say the garage should have faced/ported/fixed the heads b4 the new gaskets install (but again the heads are gonna be less durable) .... Im gonna ask the garage to swap the 853 to 241'z or 243'z & see if its a heads issue .... if not , it still wont be a total waste right ??
#24
11-14-2009, 01:55 PM
Solution provided by the garage gaurentee is to swap the damn engine !!
Thankyou Maudyz28 for the top up .... thinkin of hooker headers & 243heads with lunati cam kit ... need to know which cam is best (gov restrictions =/)!!
Thankyou Maudyz28 for the top up .... thinkin of hooker headers & 243heads with lunati cam kit ... need to know which cam is best (gov restrictions =/)!!
#25
11-14-2009, 03:11 PM
what, you swapping the engine again????
Yer if the head gaskets were bad last time the heads should ALWAYS be surfaced to ensure they are flat and mate fine otherwise the head gasket replacement is pointless.
HOPEFULLY the short block isn't warped either! Can you go to a garge that knows something about engines?? lol
The whole heads cam thing is a different bal game, luckily in the UK if you 'know' someone at a garage and they a decent people then emissions mean S**T!. I've been researching cams and packages for 5 months or so now and think i have my choice. But this is for my current set up and im just gonna get a mild cam. If I get head/cam on mine the auto trans will blow then the diff will go. And i cant affort to change/upgrade these now.
Yer if the head gaskets were bad last time the heads should ALWAYS be surfaced to ensure they are flat and mate fine otherwise the head gasket replacement is pointless.
HOPEFULLY the short block isn't warped either! Can you go to a garge that knows something about engines?? lol
The whole heads cam thing is a different bal game, luckily in the UK if you 'know' someone at a garage and they a decent people then emissions mean S**T!. I've been researching cams and packages for 5 months or so now and think i have my choice. But this is for my current set up and im just gonna get a mild cam. If I get head/cam on mine the auto trans will blow then the diff will go. And i cant affort to change/upgrade these now.
#26
11-15-2009, 02:40 AM
what, you swapping the engine again????
Yer if the head gaskets were bad last time the heads should ALWAYS be surfaced to ensure they are flat and mate fine otherwise the head gasket replacement is pointless.
HOPEFULLY the short block isn't warped either! Can you go to a garge that knows something about engines?? lol
The whole heads cam thing is a different bal game, luckily in the UK if you 'know' someone at a garage and they a decent people then emissions mean S**T!. I've been researching cams and packages for 5 months or so now and think i have my choice. But this is for my current set up and im just gonna get a mild cam. If I get head/cam on mine the auto trans will blow then the diff will go. And i cant affort to change/upgrade these now.
Yer if the head gaskets were bad last time the heads should ALWAYS be surfaced to ensure they are flat and mate fine otherwise the head gasket replacement is pointless.
HOPEFULLY the short block isn't warped either! Can you go to a garge that knows something about engines?? lol
The whole heads cam thing is a different bal game, luckily in the UK if you 'know' someone at a garage and they a decent people then emissions mean S**T!. I've been researching cams and packages for 5 months or so now and think i have my choice. But this is for my current set up and im just gonna get a mild cam. If I get head/cam on mine the auto trans will blow then the diff will go. And i cant affort to change/upgrade these now.
#27
11-17-2009, 03:29 AM
maybe a little more, depends how big the cam is. are you runnning a manual??
Id do a search too or join in the head and cam discussion in the 4 gen open section and see what everyone says
Id do a search too or join in the head and cam discussion in the 4 gen open section and see what everyone says
#28
11-18-2009, 08:10 AM
thnx man ..... im runnin a Manual 6spd t-56 fully equipped with fork pads & almost everythin from thegearbox.org
clutch master street/strip stage 4 wd 6 puck & 373 gears on !!
#29
11-19-2009, 03:50 AM
cool, better than my running gear lol standard (until it breaks)
well on the manal there is a limit on cam size for gears, everything had to work as a package. but if you got a duration 240/240 or bigger @0.05" lift on a manaul with your gears it would suck. Power wouldnd really be optimum till 5000rpm + so really hard to drive. If you had an auto with a 4500 stall you could run this cam, drive it ok (ish) and be in the power when you hit the gas.
When comparing a stock stalled auto you are better to get a smaller cam than a manual. For example i dont want to go bigger than a 224/224 on my auto cause i would be out of the power for too long and it would bog at low rpms. Im a maual with your gears i dare say you could go with something as big a the torquer v2 or v3 from TSP. With a 231/232 duration, if i ran this on my auto i need a 3500 stall, cause thats where the powers at!
It depends what you want to drive, my daily driver oppinion my be different from yours or the next guys. Plus do you want an animal thats a ***** to drive slow and you can only drive fast, or a bit of a beast that is livable but have torque everywhere. I was gonna go big with everything but cant affort so im gonna get a nice mild/medium cam for useable torque and more hp over stock but not go crazy so the car stalls all the time in gear
well on the manal there is a limit on cam size for gears, everything had to work as a package. but if you got a duration 240/240 or bigger @0.05" lift on a manaul with your gears it would suck. Power wouldnd really be optimum till 5000rpm + so really hard to drive. If you had an auto with a 4500 stall you could run this cam, drive it ok (ish) and be in the power when you hit the gas.
When comparing a stock stalled auto you are better to get a smaller cam than a manual. For example i dont want to go bigger than a 224/224 on my auto cause i would be out of the power for too long and it would bog at low rpms. Im a maual with your gears i dare say you could go with something as big a the torquer v2 or v3 from TSP. With a 231/232 duration, if i ran this on my auto i need a 3500 stall, cause thats where the powers at!
It depends what you want to drive, my daily driver oppinion my be different from yours or the next guys. Plus do you want an animal thats a ***** to drive slow and you can only drive fast, or a bit of a beast that is livable but have torque everywhere. I was gonna go big with everything but cant affort so im gonna get a nice mild/medium cam for useable torque and more hp over stock but not go crazy so the car stalls all the time in gear
