This is my first post here on the forums i just got a 2000 model camaro the car is a v6 car but has no engine trans or rearend im looking at making a drag car out of it that can hit the road once in awhile.

I know everyone on here says to buy a v8 car not to do a swap but this car was given to me with clean title so i have nothing in it as of now.

Im wanting to know what would be the best engine to put in this car money is not to much of an object but surely not goin to buy an ls7.

I have no prefernce on whether its carbed or injected doesnt matter just looking to get the car to the high 9s and it will be striped to save weight.

To get the car in the times i want whether its a factory v8 car or v6 the rearend has to be changed so im going to go either 12 bolt or 9in.

Is there a writeup on a swap of this nature or close to it anywhere.

thanks for your time hopfully ill get this car goin

 

any help guys i know its on here alot but all i see is people saying dont do it buy a v8 but the car is free, plus i will be changing the k member for a tubular 1, the rearend for 1 that can handle the horsepower, and most likely goin to be doin a LSX build

 

Thats because it is easier to drop a V8 in a V8 F-body. Other wise you have to change so much it becomes no longer cost worthy. You can pick up a LS1 car with harness in tact mines engine and trans for cheap now a days. The wiring converting over from a V6 to any LS base is going to be a night mare unless you have huge amounts of time and the experience.

There are true street LSX guys running in the 9s so if this is a true track only car then you should have no problem.

a good 12 bolt will hold a ton of power but if your going to upgrade to plan on running the car every weekend in the 9s go 9 inch.

If its a track only car and you are towing the car the 9s are no issue since you can run a full time spool, crazy gears, high stalls, huge cams, and full time race fuel and tune you will have no issue.

If i was building a budget track only F-body it would go something like this

TH400 trans with 3800 or higher converter
12bolt or 9inch with 4.20-4.56 gears
347 LS1 with and rod bolts and forged pistons 12-1CR or higher
200-250 shot plate nitrous (keep in mind we are already running 103 plus octane
Touch up the heads with a mild port and shave job (GOOD HEAD BOLTS ARE A MUST)
Patriot Gold duel valve springs and rockers
LS6 intake and port matched TB
23X/24X cam
Budget headers into a 3 inch Y-pipe and dumps throw a magnaflow
10.5-15 inch in the back with stickies
A damn good dyno tune!!!!!

In a striped out track only car you should have no problem hitting 9s. Keep in mind you will be pushing it a little bit and the tune will be every thing. You could spend the extra money and add a good set of rods and a good set of heads to make the set up a little stronger and more reliable. Heads would be strongly recommended just for the flow.

In a striped out car with every heating, ac, and comfort item removed tuned for race fuel and a 200-250 shot you would have no problem lifting the front tires and making a 9 second pass. Is this the best way to do it? Probably not as i said this was if i was working on a budget. There are also a few other small things like push rods, oil pump, radiator, ect, ect that you would also need.

Good luck i hope this helps.

 

Thats because it is easier to drop a V8 in a V8 F-body. Other wise you have to change so much it becomes no longer cost worthy. You can pick up a LS1 car with harness in tact mines engine and trans for cheap now a days. The wiring converting over from a V6 to any LS base is going to be a night mare unless you have huge amounts of time and the experience.

There are true street LSX guys running in the 9s so if this is a true track only car then you should have no problem.

a good 12 bolt will hold a ton of power but if your going to upgrade to plan on running the car every weekend in the 9s go 9 inch.

If its a track only car and you are towing the car the 9s are no issue since you can run a full time spool, crazy gears, high stalls, huge cams, and full time race fuel and tune you will have no issue.

If i was building a budget track only F-body it would go something like this

TH400 trans with 3800 or higher converter
12bolt or 9inch with 4.20-4.56 gears
347 LS1 with and rod bolts and forged pistons 12-1CR or higher
200-250 shot plate nitrous (keep in mind we are already running 103 plus octane
Touch up the heads with a mild port and shave job (GOOD HEAD BOLTS ARE A MUST)
Patriot Gold duel valve springs and rockers
LS6 intake and port matched TB
23X/24X cam
Budget headers into a 3 inch Y-pipe and dumps throw a magnaflow
10.5-15 inch in the back with stickies
A damn good dyno tune!!!!!

In a striped out track only car you should have no problem hitting 9s. Keep in mind you will be pushing it a little bit and the tune will be every thing. You could spend the extra money and add a good set of rods and a good set of heads to make the set up a little stronger and more reliable. Heads would be strongly recommended just for the flow.

In a striped out car with every heating, ac, and comfort item removed tuned for race fuel and a 200-250 shot you would have no problem lifting the front tires and making a 9 second pass. Is this the best way to do it? Probably not as i said this was if i was working on a budget. There are also a few other small things like push rods, oil pump, radiator, ect, ect that you would also need.

Good luck i hope this helps.

 

budget is not to much of a problem i was thinking somthing like an lsx build and run a carb so the wirings not so hecktac for the motor build and the price of the engine i was saying somthing around 10g. I was goin to put about 15g in the whole car and have a badass car the only thing im keepin in the interior will be door panels, dash, and carpet so it want be fully stripped. as for gauges i was goin to wire up all auto meter gauges and throw out the factory gauges which helps with wiring also

 

10K on a LSX is going to be nothing but could be done. You are also going to need around 6K for the rear, drive shaft, and transmission. Also dont forget suspension, tires, cage, ect, ect.