95 Camo convert w/ 3400 V6, but I am currently experiencing problems with the power top and the power windows and radio.
These are all, fused by the interior fuse block. Initially I lost the driver's side control, but passenger side still worked. I have a new driver's side control ordered. I believe the power top and power windows are both fused by a 30 A circuit breaker, but I could not find any current to these positions on the fuse block, leading me to think I must have a "broken wire" somewhere between the battery and those terminals on the fuse block. So I am tearing apart the dash, to access the fuse block. What I have found is that there is only one wire running to these terminals. I was under the impression that a fuse/circuit breaker would be connected on the positive side, then the load/resistance and then the ground. There was no second wire running from that terminal. So not sure where to go from here. I had to walk away and do some more thinking on this, still no answers.

 

check relays in under hood fuse box. not sure how the v6 system is set up, check junction box, red cover should be on the passenger side fender well. check for corrosion and clean all wire end connectors with wire brush if needed and look for bad connections from wire to metal connector. have you downloaded or purchased a factory service manual for your model and year?

 

Yeah, got a Haynes Manual ordered online and paper. I don't think it is a ground issue, someone on could have been this forum suggested there was a relay back behind the radio, which is unavailable, another suggested the BCM which is on the passenger side below/behind the glove box. I suspect that may be the issue because I have lost the radio, power top, as well as the power window. This BCM suggestion was on Youtube where the guy pulled the BCM and resoldered 5 connections???? So who knows, this is going to be my next step. I don't have any confidence in dealerships trouble shooting the issue, the car could be older than most of the technicians/mechanics there.
I am a bit disappointed so far with what I am finding with the online version of the Haynes manual, there is no mention whatsoever of a BCM, in fact until recently I was unaware they even existed.

 

have you downloaded the factory manual for your year here http://www.mediafire.com/?40mfgeoe4ctti

 

I did get the service manual from your link, thank you, nearly 5,000 pages, both the convertible top and power window run off the circuit with the 30A circuit breaker on position 15, but currently, there isn't any current at the fuse block. Just gotta track down why? I had no idea there were modules or how many of them there are the PCM, BCM, RAP, a coolant level latching module???

 

95 should not have BCM
Check out Retained Accessory Power (RAP) you can by pass it. Try google By passing the RAP module or something like that.

 

You may be on the right track, Pulled the fuse block to gain access to wires and how the power is delivered. I jumped a live feed in block to the connections where radio, power top and power window, everything is back up. Only problem is that these circuits are all going to be active, don't know that is a problem as long as I switch the radio off. One thing that happened however is that the driver's side window will go up part way or down part way, and then stop. I am guessing, the motor is drawing too much current and the circuit breaker trips, wait a few and it appears to have reset and I can complete closing/opening the window. I will follow up on bypass the RAP module. Thanks.

 

Ok currently I have everything working more or less. I jumped the fuse location for the power windows/power top, to another hot lead in the fuse block. Power top, radio, and passenger side window work great. Driver's side window will raise or lower part way, wait a minute or so and it will complete the movement, suggesting the circuit breaker is popping? Leads me to believe the driver's side window motor is drawing too much current? I attempted to do a bit of cleaning up the old grease and lubricating without much better results. I drilled holes through the inner panel, to access the rivets and drill them out, that went pretty well. I am waiting on a new motor to confirm, that was part of the problem. I tried jumping the brn and dk blue wires in the RAP, didn't appear to do anything. I may revisit that with a continuity tester to see if current is actually getting there. So stuff is working, but there is current available to these circuits with or without ignition, so stuff works all the time, only issue is the radio, which I will have to manually switch off every time I leave the car. I can live with that. Particularly is the issue is with the RAP and as I understand are only available in junkyards. I have a couple of older GM vehicles that may also have those, so I may do a bit of investigating there. If there is something and I am sure there probably is, I'd appreciate your thoughts. This car is is great shaped otherwise, the first and only convertible we have owned and something that gets driven infrequently.