I have a 96 Camaro that I have just replaced the front brake rotors and pads on. I bled the brakes like I was told by Auto Zone. All is well until I over tighten the brake bleed screw on the passenger caliper and the screw snaps in half, no big deal though because it still keeps it plugged. When I went to hit the brake there was no pressure on the pedal and I easily pressed it all the way to the ground. So I had my buddy get in the car and apply full pressure on the brake pedal while I added the brake fluid and in theory it's supposed to suck all the brake fluid down through the lines once the pedal is released. Mine however didn't because when I went to re-apply pressure on the pedal, the pedal went stright to the floor again. I need some help as to if I did it all wrong or what I should do? Keep in mind I can't bleed the passenger side now that the screw is busted up.

 

[X(] you still have air in the system and until you make it so the bleed screw is functional it will remain there. why did you bleed the brakes to replace pads and rotors(fluid replacement)?? did you let the master cylinder run out during the bleed process kurt

 

Bleeding was the only thingI could think of doing because I mounted the pads on the calipers. But the space between the pads wasn't enough for the rotor to fit in. My dad said the only thing I could do was bleed the brakes, so I loosened the screw on the cylinder of the caliper and compressed the caliper with a c-clamp. While I had it still compressed, I then tightened the screw. Then I put the pads on and mounted it all on the rotor and bolted it all up. Then I had my buddy step on the brake all the way after I loosened the screw on the caliper, to get the air out and once I saw just fluid coming out I tightened the screw back up. I did this on both sides. What I screwed up on doing was, I didn't add any brake fluid before I bled them so when I saw just the fluid coming out I didn't know that that was shortly followed by just air. So until I get a new caliper or find a way to remove the old screw from the caliper I won't be able to get all the air out of the lines. Do you have any suggestions as to how I can remove the old screw that broke? It basically broke in half and the half that is screwed into the caliper is below flush of the rest of the caliper so I can't really fit anything down in there like vice grips to remove it.

 

That is not the way to do it, next time buy a service manual and read it. All you had to do was to push the piston back into the caliper. You may be able to get the broken valve with an easy out, but being that you have little experience, you should get the caliper rebuilt. The other bad thing you did was to pump air into the system by letting the reservoir run dry.

 

Well I have the Haynes car manual but that didn't explain very deep in actually doing it. At least I'll know how to do it next time. I'd rather screw up the first time and learn how to do it then never learn how to do it. I never thought of just trying to compress the caliper without bleeding it, I wish I tried that then I wouldn't be in this situation. I'm going to take your advice and go pick up one of those easy out kits tomorrow. Thanks.

 

in most cases you can remove the remnants of the bleed screw with the easy out as long as some gorilla wasnt the one to over tighten it on the way in. may be able to get new bleeder screw at your local parts house, if not the local boneyard is next best. most gm used same screw. do you have a drill?? you'll want to get the largest easy out possible to avoid breaking the easy out in the hole(if that happens youll need a new caliper) in order to get the largest one you have to drill out the bleeder screw without getting into the threads. if all of this is a bit more than you think your capable of then it may be cheaper and easier to grab a new caliper or see whats available at the junk yard kurt

 

I tried two different screw extractors neither worked. So what I did was I just removed the caliper and brought it up to Auto Zone and exchanged it for $29.99. So it's all good, now the car practically stops on a dime with the Hawk Performance ceramic pads and Summit's cross-drilled and slotted brake rotors.

 

Purpl96 I must say good job. You (unlike most) tried. You failed, but you learned from your mistake. Betcha you wont do that again. How we all learn is through failure, why do you think it took so long for the Boston Red Sox to win the World Series. Take that Haynes book and burn it, they suck and are a waste of money. Keep trying, before you know it you will be repairing and replacing parts you never thought you could. (insert golf clap here.)