250 block machining
#1
250 block machining
i just bought a 350 engine block off of my friend, and i want to rebuild it. This is going to be my 1st rebuild.
I want to know what steps i should take in preparing this block for the rebuild, and what to machine.
If anyone can help me get started.... thanks.
I want to know what steps i should take in preparing this block for the rebuild, and what to machine.
If anyone can help me get started.... thanks.
#2
RE: 250 block machining
Depends on what you want to build/spend. I like to have the blocks inspected, cleaned and crack checked before I start with anything else. Is it a 4 bolt or a 2 bolt main? What hp are you looking for? How much do you want to spend? I guess what I am getting at is that a fairly stock rebuild is a big difference from a 600 hp engine and the machining choices you make are dependent on what you are looking to build. A mild rebuild would consist of probably a bore and hone, checking resizing the rods, checking and possibly tuning the crank, camshaft replacement, timing chain replacement, cam bearings, main bearings, oil pump, checking out the heads, valve guides ect
#3
RE: 250 block machining
well here is my plan, all i'm using from the old engine is the block, so definately have it inspected, cleaned and checked for cracks (thank you). The block is a 2 bolt main and i am not looking for a lot of horsepower out of this one. Moslty stock if not less than 400HP. I mainly just want to rebuild it for experience!
#5
RE: 250 block machining
I have a 2 bolt we are messing with right now. What is the casting # do you know what year type of car it was out of? You may get differing opinions on this but at 400hp you might be at the limit for the 2 bolt block and stock crank. Starting at the crank if the crank is wore to the point of needing turned you might consider going aftermarket for a scat or eagle cast crank they are reasonably priced, if it is ok you might just consider having it polished. The stock rods might need to be resized I think you might be better of again going aftermarket you can get a better set of rods for a little over $200 and you might consider going to a 6" rod instead of the 5.7 stock rod it give a better rod to stoke ratio. The block most likely will need bored and honed. At this point we would need to know what head you plan on running, if you are looking for a true 400hp some of the factory smog heads will have trouble getting to this number. The head chamber size, block deck height, head gasket, and piston choice will determine the static compression ratio which along with cam choice will determine required gasoline octane. Give a list of parts you plan on using(head casting # valve size)and your actual target hp, remember stock hp was probably less than 200.
#6
RE: 250 block machining
Well i think i will actually be looking for around 300 hp, i thought stock was more than 200. Definately i am going with new internals, i know that, and i have looked at the scat crank. I think i will get that one based on your opinion as well. i was gonna use the stock 5.7 rods but what are the benifits some of the other benefits of using the 6 inch, besides the better rod to stroke ratio. Also with the 6" rods will i have to use a different crank or different heads? I have not yet checked the casting number but after i have the block cleaned i will let you know for sure.
#7
RE: 250 block machining
The hp depends on the year, The rod length is a matter of preferance arguements go either way, in theory it gives a bit more time at top dead center and decreases the side loading of the piston, the downside might be piston choice, for a 6 inch rod the piston wrist pin location is located further up other that the piston that is the only thing that is different you would need to buy a piston for a 6 inch rod. The stock rods are strong enough and you can use them I have just found the cost of new bolts and having them sized is close to buying new scat rods. Check with your machinist maybe they are cheaper its more of a cost issue than anything. 300 hp is a good number although some of the smog heads dont flow very well find the head casting #on the top of the head check out mortec to get a ID. If they need a rebuilt ie guides valves or what ever it may be cheaper to get a set of summits cheap heads.
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