yeah, audiovox is crap stuff. You don't have to go with the best stuff around, but...

Look at these, looked the specs up on crutchfield and did a search for the cheapest buys.
http://www.buy.com/retail/product.as...ingid=52692771
RMS is 150 watts, Max 800, with 97 db rating for $53 each

These would be a great sub for you, not bottom end at all, but not the top dog either. I've had several friends that have had pioneer subs and got great bass out of them. But a lot of the sound you get is going to depend on your amp, I would not cut corners with this. Get one with a built in crossover, and I always recommend running a stand alone crossover, just lets you dial in the sound so much better. And they are more adjustable than the one on your amp. The crossover in your amp is like a printer with a scanner, yeah it works, but a stand alone scanner is going to offer so much more. And you can pick up a crossover cheap these days, usually around $40 bucks or less.

 

Damn I don't know why it posted it again. I'm using my phone sorry.

Those subs look nice. I gotta say this, I'll take your word over the sales peoples word. Since I have 30 days, I might take these subs back and get me a good amp then order some subs. What does the rms mean? The boss subs have a peek of 1200 watts but like u told me I'm not sure what the db rating is.

I'm even willing to spend a little more for the subs. What would be the next step up from those pioneers arrow?

 

RMS - The range of RMS power the speaker requires to operate safely and properly. RMS power handling refers to the amount of power a speaker can handle on a continuous basis.

Peak Power Handling - Refers to the amount of power a speaker can handle during a brief musical burst. The RMS power range figure is a much more reliable rating for determining the speaker's power requirements.

The db rating is how loud they can go, those pioneer's are rated at 97 db, which is very high. So that means that they will get loud. But it's all going to depend on the box, the car, the amp, there's so many things that will factor into how your sub actually performs.

I looked over the pioneer speakers crutchfield had on their site agian and those seem to be the best bang for the money. They have the highest db rating of all the pioneer and only take 150 watts RMS, that means you'd need a 400 watt 2 channel amp to push both of them. But I would do some research man. Look at what crutchfield has to offer and if you find something you like, then do a google shopping search for it. That's all I've done for ya here.

 

Ooohhh I see. Makes a lot more sence to me know. The a
subs that I got are 1200 peak and 300 rms. The db rating is 90. This pretty much means that this sub just needs more watts to power it efficiently? But if I take this sub and put it in the exact same box and put it under the same conditions as the pioneer, the pioneer will be louder since it has a higher db rating?

Makes sence that the sales people trick buyers by saying how many watts it can handle.

 

Well each sub is going to have different airspace requirements that you want to pay attention to. That and your amp/signal going to the speaker will determine how well it sounds. And you don't want a square box, the sound waves will cancell each other out. I used to live by this stereo shop when that whole thing came out back in early 90's and we tried it out, build a single square box for a 10 sub and it hit 79 db's, then we took and put some planks inside that box where they were slanted and broke up the squareness of the inside of the box and it hit 85 db's, so it makes a difference.


Yeah, and peak is what it can stand for a limited time, not continious. And it's not like you're going to get 1200 watts out of a 300 watt amp. So it's really not even worth it to look at the peak watts. I always look at the RMS and db's. The subs I have are rated at 400 RMS and 800 peak with a 93 db rating. I have a amps that can push 612 watts max, they are turned down to about where they push out 350-400 watts normal, but with a big bass hit they will push out more. And it will rattle your teeth. And this is when a crossover comes in to play also. A sub is just for bass, depending on the headunit you have, you may have the ability to cut the higher mid and trebble freq's out prior to the signal going to your amp. But with a crossover before your amp, you cut out all the freq's you don't want (above 60-100 Hz), so you're amp is only amplifing the signal you want your subs to reproduce. That will make your amp run better and your subs sound better. You should still use the crossover on your amp.

 

Ok sk what is a crossover? The subs that I have now I think said needed 1.5 cubic feet. And the box that o bought is not completely square. One side is slanted.

I found a kenwood amp for 140 that pushes 500 wats. Not sure if it has a built in crossover though. Is there a way I can check for that?

 

It's sort of like an EQ, lets you adjust the freq's that are going out to your amp, so you don't waste power amplifing freq's your speakers won't use or can't reproduce.

This would work for your needs: http://cgi.ebay.com/Power-Acoustik-C...QQcmdZViewItem This is a 1-way, meaning it's only for bass.

But something like this would allow for future upgrades in your system: http://cgi.ebay.com/American-Pro-4-3...QQcmdZViewItem This is a 3 way, meaning it will do bass/mids/trebble.


This is almost the exact one I have, just a different company, I think mine is california profile or something like that. Some no name brand that I just happen to pick up at a good price on crutchfield. But this will let you filter your mids/trebble if you decide to add amps for those latter on. This is a

 

The amp that I have now actually has a crossover. I've seen it and kind of messed with it but never knew what it was. All I knew was that I had the bass boost set on high. And I'm no even sure what the Hz are set at.

The crossover frequency is what it's going to filter? If it's set to 40 it won't let anything over 40 hz get through to the subs?

If I purchase a amp with a built In Crossover you say it's better if I buy a seperate crossover to prevent those frequencies from even getting to my amp?

 

Yep, if it's set to 40 hz, nothing over that will get through. But you have to look at what your subs response freq's are, it may not even go that low and you might have to raise that up more to like 60 or 80 hz. I believe that a separate stand alone crossover adds a alot to the sound of the system. And they are fairly cheap. But to each their own.

 

oh ok..

well arrow i appreciate all the help man.. thanks for all the links and answers to all of my questions.. im sure i will have more questions sometime soon.. this coming weekend i will hopefully go get my amp and ill post up pics of progress and whatever questions i may have