are these good
ORIGINAL: vanilla sky
When I put new speakers in my car, I'll be assembleing my own driver packages. Two way in the front (high mounted tweeter, door mounted midbass) and a single pair of midbasses in the rear deck of the car. It's been a while, but last time I "built" it on paper, I was using Dayton Audio midbasses and Vifa Tweeters. The crossovers will be hand built by myself on a nice fiberglass breadboard.
When I put new speakers in my car, I'll be assembleing my own driver packages. Two way in the front (high mounted tweeter, door mounted midbass) and a single pair of midbasses in the rear deck of the car. It's been a while, but last time I "built" it on paper, I was using Dayton Audio midbasses and Vifa Tweeters. The crossovers will be hand built by myself on a nice fiberglass breadboard.
Do not waste your money in the rear.
When you go to a concert do you look toward the band or do you face toward the back?
The same reasoning for your car, you want a great front stage, there is no reason to get anything for the rear.
It's redundant.
You need some rear fill. I plan on cutting my rear midbasses off at about 500hz. With me building my crossovers, I can fairly easily change that.
Tell me you've been to a concert that had no echo.
I had a similar setup in another car. Sounded great to me. I needed to sound dampen the rear deck, but I parked the car before I got around to it.
It should be mentioned that I'm NOT planning on running a subwoofer in my car. Just the midbasses in the rear. The drivers I was looking into could extend cleanly down to about 30hz if I built fiberglass enclosures for them. Not a big deal.
Tell me you've been to a concert that had no echo.
I had a similar setup in another car. Sounded great to me. I needed to sound dampen the rear deck, but I parked the car before I got around to it.
It should be mentioned that I'm NOT planning on running a subwoofer in my car. Just the midbasses in the rear. The drivers I was looking into could extend cleanly down to about 30hz if I built fiberglass enclosures for them. Not a big deal.
Well,unless you're willing to invest roughly $6k in a head unit and decent amps, to get surround sound in your car, and utilize rear and center channel; you're only listening to stereo sound. STEREO SOUND 2-Channels. Save your money on a rear stage and get a bigger and louder front stage
Plus it makes it even harder to get everything to equalize, trying to get 2 separate sounds to hit your ears at the same time is tough let alone 4.
Plus it makes it even harder to get everything to equalize, trying to get 2 separate sounds to hit your ears at the same time is tough let alone 4.
I've done it before without so much as an active EQ. You have to remember that the lower the frequency is, the harder it is to pinpoint the location. My car makes it difficult for anything large enough to produce what I want in the front doors. The only other stock location is the rear deck. I'm installing a stealth system, so I'm pretty stuck with where I can put my speakers.
In the future, I may go with a full DTS system. One of my honda buddies has one in his car and that thing is awesome. I just need to convince him to put a screen in the car so it's useful for more than DTS music recordings.
BTW, his entire system cost about $1500. You ebay for a lot of things, and swap meet a lot of things. He's a packrat like myself, so he's traded a lot of computer hardware for some of his parts. I think he actually has $50 out of pocket on his DTS processor because he traded a bunch of old computer parts for most of it.
In the future, I may go with a full DTS system. One of my honda buddies has one in his car and that thing is awesome. I just need to convince him to put a screen in the car so it's useful for more than DTS music recordings.
BTW, his entire system cost about $1500. You ebay for a lot of things, and swap meet a lot of things. He's a packrat like myself, so he's traded a lot of computer hardware for some of his parts. I think he actually has $50 out of pocket on his DTS processor because he traded a bunch of old computer parts for most of it.
Let me add something else in I just remembered.
Rear-fill is redundant, unless you use time delay and processing to set up rear fill to create ambience
You can also use rear fill to boost midbass performance, but midbass does localize so it's not the best option.
But like stated before; the best route would be to buy a better front stage, and stick with it.
Rear-fill is redundant, unless you use time delay and processing to set up rear fill to create ambience
You can also use rear fill to boost midbass performance, but midbass does localize so it's not the best option.
But like stated before; the best route would be to buy a better front stage, and stick with it.
Well, the drivers don't cost all that much, since I'm buying raw drivers. I'm not out spending $1000 on focal comps, I'm spending more along the lines of $80, with the materials for my crossovers.
If I had the room for a sub and would sacrifice the weight, I'd install a Dayton Audio Titanic MKIII 10" in my trunk. I just don't want to have to haul it aroud all the time.
There's aways the option of me using 8" subs in the rear deck and building fiberglass enclosures for those. I've thought about using Dayton Audio Qu4ttros for that.
If I had the room for a sub and would sacrifice the weight, I'd install a Dayton Audio Titanic MKIII 10" in my trunk. I just don't want to have to haul it aroud all the time.
There's aways the option of me using 8" subs in the rear deck and building fiberglass enclosures for those. I've thought about using Dayton Audio Qu4ttros for that.
ORIGINAL: vanilla sky
Well, the drivers don't cost all that much, since I'm buying raw drivers. I'm not out spending $1000 on focal comps, I'm spending more along the lines of $80, with the materials for my crossovers.
If I had the room for a sub and would sacrifice the weight, I'd install a Dayton Audio Titanic MKIII 10" in my trunk. I just don't want to have to haul it aroud all the time.
There's aways the option of me using 8" subs in the rear deck and building fiberglass enclosures for those. I've thought about using Dayton Audio Qu4ttros for that.
Well, the drivers don't cost all that much, since I'm buying raw drivers. I'm not out spending $1000 on focal comps, I'm spending more along the lines of $80, with the materials for my crossovers.
If I had the room for a sub and would sacrifice the weight, I'd install a Dayton Audio Titanic MKIII 10" in my trunk. I just don't want to have to haul it aroud all the time.
There's aways the option of me using 8" subs in the rear deck and building fiberglass enclosures for those. I've thought about using Dayton Audio Qu4ttros for that.
Are you running them off the H.U.?


