Yes, fuse is there, I tried a couple different ones on your advice. How do I get power to the orange wire? I assume it goes to the back of the block, which is really hard to get to, but where does it go from there?

I'm starting to think something is draining the battery. By next week I should be able to tell, unless you know how to check.??

 

I would take the fuse block out and check the backside to make sure the wire is connected correctly and not damaged. also probe wire for power before connection. also check wire end connectors, sometimes they can get lose, heat can soften metal and allow the connection to fail. also check this at the fuse. usually just have to re bend them so the connection is tight.

 

When you jump across terminals "H" and "J", you are bypassing the fuse that feed the switch with the jumper and now this jumper is providing 12V to power to the switch and not the fuse. The only thing you have changed is the route of the power supply to the switch, so this tells me that when the switch has 12V applied to it, it works correctly. If I am understanding correctly you checked the fuse with a test light connected across the fuse holder terminals and the test light lit. This will not show if the fuse is good or not because the tester is not reading through the fuse, instead it's reading through the tester leads and light bulb of the light connected in parallel to the fuse. To test a fuse the fuse terminals, you would have to use a self powered continuity tester or volt meter set on ohms to actually read through the fuse to determine if the fuse element is good. To test a fuse with a non powered test light, you need to ground one lead of the light to a chassis ground and the other probe of the test light individually to each side of the fuse terminals to check for 12V. In this case, the right side of the fuse holder should be hot all the time because it fed from a fusible link (I believe it is the same link that also feeds terminal "J" at the switch connector) and the left side fuse holder (orange wire to switch) will only be hot if the fuse is good.

 

I would be so lost without you. I can put your radio in, add some lights and whatnot but .....thanks. I'll be a couple hours, a buddy needs a ride. I'll check these things and get back here.

 

I think its just pull the one screw and do the two clip things on the top and it sorta folds out. lol, haven't had this one out yet, did the one under hood looking for bad connection. if you question the fuse, take one from somewhere else that's the same and use it to see if it works.

 

It's been a while since i could get to this. Hopefully I can find out why there is no power on the orange wire behind the light switch on the dashboard. I got the fuse block loose, my goodness, there are a lot of orange wires there. Not good. There are many orange wires in the harness that disappears and reappears in the corner near the A pillar and fuse block. I don't know what to do.

 

Do you have a meter that you can check for continuity of the orange wire with? If so, set the meter on ohms and place one meter lead on the orange wire at the fuse block and the other meter lead on the orange wire in the light switch connector. This test will show if the wire is broken between the fuse block and switch.

 

I'll have to get one.

 

I bought a continuity tester, and got the car back from the body shop yesterday. Now i start again with the light diagnosis.

 

Ok thank you guys so much. You saved me a lot of hassle and several hundred dollars in diagnostic fees.

It was connection in the light switch at the orange wire that feeds power to the parking lights.

Once I tightened up the terminal, it worked. it started to blink when was working on iit.