93-02 V6 Tech V6 Camaro General Topics.

Ok I admit it I need help! 97 RS

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Old 09-26-2017, 07:54 PM
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Default Ok I admit it I need help! 97 RS

So I finally started this project with my son of replacing the slave cylinder and clutch. we did get the transmission out, which was a ***** because we could not unbolt the cat, and drop the engine a little, so we had to slide the transmission back, unbolt the bellhousing and remove the slave cylinder.

So clutch is in, new fly wheel, getting ready to install the transmission. I figured it may be difficult to put the transmission in the way it came out. So I thought if I removed the exhaust from the manifolds, I could drop the engine a bit with a jack and get a better angle to install the transmission. The bell housing has been reattached and we have the new slave cylinder in. My problem is even after 2 days of soaking, the bolts on the exhaust manifolds where it connects to the manifolds all broke off. That was the straw that broke the camels back. I now have 4 bolts to drill out and re thread.

Another problem is I cannot seem to get the exhaust pip off the manifold on the passenger side. Even though there is no bolt or flange holding it in place. what the hell could be holding it on?

I could use some advice at this point, any help would be appreciated.
 
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Old 09-26-2017, 08:38 PM
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Is there something binding the pipe in place? that type of joint should not rust together because every time you put a load on the engine that joint slips a little. Sometime if the exhaust bottomed out or was put together wrong the is a lot of stress in the exhaust pipe.

Do you have a plan on getting those bolts out? Spring loaded center punch. Left hand cobalt jobber drill and good extractor is a good investment. Many times the bolt come out as you are drilling. It is a combination of heat vibration and drill torque.

You did install new fly wheel bolts? It must have been fun to use a torque angle gage wiht the trans still in there.
 
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Old 09-26-2017, 08:51 PM
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Gorn,

I pulled on the pipe, I've tapped the pipe with a hammer, I've heated the pipe, it doesn't seem to separate. My plan tomorrow is to get m drill in there and drill out the bolts. Then retap them. it will be a task I'm sure. I looked on the back side and those bolts looked welded in with rust.
 
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Old 09-26-2017, 08:53 PM
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I did not install new fly wheel bolts, I've read you should but I had two friends tell me they ran race motors and never changed them. as far as getting the bolts there were none within a 60 mile radius to us.
 
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Old 09-27-2017, 09:36 AM
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pictures please, much better to get idea of whats going on if we can see it. sounds like a bracket/bolt is still on the exhaust manifold or its welded in place by the hangers. yah the exhaust bolts like to break.
 

Last edited by craby; 09-27-2017 at 09:45 AM.
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Old 09-27-2017, 09:37 AM
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lol, maybe time to buy some headers.
 
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Old 09-27-2017, 09:41 AM
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check the exhaust for play, the whole exhaust may be jammed up tight to the front and is not letting it out. hangers welded to pipe and body would be another way it would jam
 

Last edited by craby; 09-27-2017 at 09:46 AM.
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Old 09-27-2017, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Red97RS
I did not install new fly wheel bolts, I've read you should but I had two friends tell me they ran race motors and never changed them. as far as getting the bolts there were none within a 60 mile radius to us.
Notice how short the bolts are, normally short bolts can not handle the amount the flywheel will expanded and contract with hot/cold. The way GM over came this issue is a torque to yield bolts. As you torque the bolt it stretches beckoned it yield point. At that point the steel becomes a spring. As a spring the the bolt can handle how much fly wheel expands hot. Even the best ARP bolt will not work in the application. The work/spring/tempering only works one time. If you install a flywheel on this motor and decide to take it off then you need new bolts even if the car never started. I too have built race cars and I have reused flywheel bolts but in this application new bolts are not recommended they are required. The bolts do not re-spring. By the time you feel the vibration of the lose flywheel the input bearing on the trans is shot and the rear main bearing of the engine is gone. When they come lose it will destroy the engine and the transmission and can hurt someone in the car.

The odd thing about the 3800 flywheel bolts is that they are TTY bolts, this is normally only used on head bolts. If you tell your mechanic friends the fly wheel bolts are TTY then I will bet they will change their advice.

I had to wait a week for mine also. I have given this warning on this website before and was ignore with expected results in less then a year. Luckily no one was hurt.

http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/a1_4.html
 

Last edited by Gorn; 09-27-2017 at 01:03 PM.
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