Having 3.4L issues, how to check for codes?
Hi all, I've been a lurker for some time, and decided to make a username. I have a 93 Fbody that I use as a daily commuter now and then. The car is not modified at all.
Specs
1993
3.4L v6
130k miles
Automatic
Recently, the car has a developing issue with shutting off on me randomly while driving it. I noticed it on my way to work one day on the highway. It just shut off, and I restarted it while moving and continued on my way. It got worse as the week progressed. A few days later, it shut off after only a few minutes of driving it. It then happened repeatedly and it got to the point where it was draining the battery from having to start it so much from it shutting down. I had to get a spare battery with me, to help jump the car when I restart it.
The problem seems to happen more when the car is cold and the car is moving. The car really shuts off randomly so it's hard to guess what the problem is. Also, it happens especially when I am about to leave from a stop light, or the car is turning into an Uphill or elevated platform (such as a gas station) and the steering wheel is turned all the way to one side of the other. Don't know if it has something to do with the elevation of when the car is turning or the fact that it's turning. I had some one test the alternator, and it tested fine. I thought at one point the fuel pump could be the problem, but I hear it can be a hassle to change on these cars. I replaced the fuel filter to see if it would help and added some fuel system cleaner, but the problem continues.
I want to know how to check for codes on these cars to see if I can get an answer on this.
Any additional input would be very much appreciated.
Thanks
Specs
1993
3.4L v6
130k miles
Automatic
Recently, the car has a developing issue with shutting off on me randomly while driving it. I noticed it on my way to work one day on the highway. It just shut off, and I restarted it while moving and continued on my way. It got worse as the week progressed. A few days later, it shut off after only a few minutes of driving it. It then happened repeatedly and it got to the point where it was draining the battery from having to start it so much from it shutting down. I had to get a spare battery with me, to help jump the car when I restart it.
The problem seems to happen more when the car is cold and the car is moving. The car really shuts off randomly so it's hard to guess what the problem is. Also, it happens especially when I am about to leave from a stop light, or the car is turning into an Uphill or elevated platform (such as a gas station) and the steering wheel is turned all the way to one side of the other. Don't know if it has something to do with the elevation of when the car is turning or the fact that it's turning. I had some one test the alternator, and it tested fine. I thought at one point the fuel pump could be the problem, but I hear it can be a hassle to change on these cars. I replaced the fuel filter to see if it would help and added some fuel system cleaner, but the problem continues.
I want to know how to check for codes on these cars to see if I can get an answer on this.
Any additional input would be very much appreciated.
Thanks
Is your check engine light on? Did you check battery connections? To get error codes you need a scanner with an adapter to the fitting under the steering wheel. Go to any parts store they have free scanning, although you may need an 0bd1.5 adapter
Go get an OBD I/II scanner, I have one of these:
http://www.autoxray.com/product_category.php?id=338
OR check into the new OBD apps for iPhone/iPod Touch like Rev (although last I checked, they still only supported OBD II):
http://www.devtoaster.com/products/rev/index.html
http://www.autoxray.com/product_category.php?id=338
OR check into the new OBD apps for iPhone/iPod Touch like Rev (although last I checked, they still only supported OBD II):
http://www.devtoaster.com/products/rev/index.html
Last edited by libertyforall1776; Feb 28, 2009 at 02:12 PM.
on 93 fbodies you dont need a scanner, you can either short out the connections or at most parts stores they have the plug in to flash codes for $30, ill have a write up later today on how to flash codes on a 93
Thanks for the replies guys.
VanHalen, the check engine light has always been on in the car ever since I've had it (which was about 4 years ago). A friend of my dads wife owned the car prior to me, she got into a minor accident with it. The car was practically given to me by my dads friend after it was rebuilt.
I had it checked for codes years ago because of the light, but it either didn't produce any at the auto parts store, or the person using it didn't know how to scan and told me there were no codes.
A few people have been suggesting the fuel pump. But before I get to that, I'll probably check/replace the TPS, crank sensor, Fuel cap, plugs/wires, ignition module, etc, etc, before I get to the expensive problems.
VanHalen, the check engine light has always been on in the car ever since I've had it (which was about 4 years ago). A friend of my dads wife owned the car prior to me, she got into a minor accident with it. The car was practically given to me by my dads friend after it was rebuilt.
I had it checked for codes years ago because of the light, but it either didn't produce any at the auto parts store, or the person using it didn't know how to scan and told me there were no codes.
A few people have been suggesting the fuel pump. But before I get to that, I'll probably check/replace the TPS, crank sensor, Fuel cap, plugs/wires, ignition module, etc, etc, before I get to the expensive problems.
I would check all of the grounds around the engine compartment. Since the car was rebuilt, it's quite possible that a ground didn't get hooked up or it wasn't tightened and is now loose. Definitely get the codes scanned before replacing any parts. No point in changing items that don't need it yet. Good luck.
Ok I had some free time today so I took it on a test drive.
I discovered the key in the ignition is what turns the car off. When I'm driving it, be it turning turning or whatever I'm doing to the steering wheel, applies pressure to the barrel where the key is, and causes the key to slightly turn, causing the car to shut off.
After it shut off two times, I started the car up again, and applied pressure with my right hand to the key and I noticed while driving, when turning the steering wheel it would create pressure to the key and it wanted to shut the car off. But my hand being in the place it was, kept it from shutting off. Very weird problem. I guess it's the ignition barrel that needs to be replaced? Do they just sell this part still for these cars, anyone have any other ideas that might solve this?
Another thing I noticed, is when the car is cold and I'm traveling at low speeds or idling in "Drive", the idle is very rough and low (400-500rpm). The car almost feels like it's going to shut off but doesn't. Then when I accelerate, it causes a slight hesitation that goes away as higher speeds come. Could this be a vacuum leak, is there a way to increase the idle revs of these cars? Perhaps a screw somewhere?
I'm going to take the car to get scanned this weekend so I will post any codes it throws. Thanks.
I discovered the key in the ignition is what turns the car off. When I'm driving it, be it turning turning or whatever I'm doing to the steering wheel, applies pressure to the barrel where the key is, and causes the key to slightly turn, causing the car to shut off.
After it shut off two times, I started the car up again, and applied pressure with my right hand to the key and I noticed while driving, when turning the steering wheel it would create pressure to the key and it wanted to shut the car off. But my hand being in the place it was, kept it from shutting off. Very weird problem. I guess it's the ignition barrel that needs to be replaced? Do they just sell this part still for these cars, anyone have any other ideas that might solve this?
Another thing I noticed, is when the car is cold and I'm traveling at low speeds or idling in "Drive", the idle is very rough and low (400-500rpm). The car almost feels like it's going to shut off but doesn't. Then when I accelerate, it causes a slight hesitation that goes away as higher speeds come. Could this be a vacuum leak, is there a way to increase the idle revs of these cars? Perhaps a screw somewhere?
I'm going to take the car to get scanned this weekend so I will post any codes it throws. Thanks.
^ Thanks for the info.
After having seen various similar issues with other Chevrolets around the same year as mine, I'm thinking I may have to replace my ignition barrel or a piece in the neighboring area to stop the backwards pressure on the key. I'm also going to reduce the amount of keys on my key ring to reduce weight for wear and tear.
After having seen various similar issues with other Chevrolets around the same year as mine, I'm thinking I may have to replace my ignition barrel or a piece in the neighboring area to stop the backwards pressure on the key. I'm also going to reduce the amount of keys on my key ring to reduce weight for wear and tear.
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