I'm not talking about a cutting torch partner.......just the same propane torch one would use to heat up a frozen pipe. I would NEVER use a cutting torch on anything just to warm it up a little to expand the aluminum a tad.

 

Listen to gorn.

 

Thanks boss........I'm tearing it down now! I thought that was right.....I just wanted a second opinioin.....appreciate it!

 

Thanks for the opinions guys! That's what this forum is for. I'll let you know Monday how everything went.

 

Quick question..........how much clearance is necessary once the yoke can slide in. I've got a feeler gauge for it. What I'm doing is using a small grinding wheel and some 2000 grit wet/ dry sandpaper to smooth the bushing down.

 

If you are trying to do this by hand, don't. I can seem to find the spec in my manual but I remember it being .001-.003 clearance range. If its seems to have a bur or a ridge on the edge then put a chamfer on it and see if it works. Unless you know what your doing and have access to a metal lathe do not try to recut the whole bushing. Not only for you need to maintain size you need to maintain concentricity with put put shaft.

 

Sounds good boss...I'll take it to a shop and have them lathe it. Thanks man!

 

A lot cheaper to get the correct bushing and get that installed. To safely set that up on a lathe and indicate in will take an hour so with tear down and cleaning they will charge you two hours. Rates vary depending where you live but it could cost $150-250.

It could also be done on a drill press with a indicator and a boring head. but that is not going to be any cheaper.

I am still hoping it was just not installed right and you can use a dremel tool or sand paper and put a small chamfer on the tail shaft seal side of the bushing.

 

Well....it's all together now. I took a cylinder hone to the extension housing bushing, and that took care of the clearance problem. As it turned out, the guy I had install the bushing bashed it into place with a socket and burred the end. I'll never take anything there again, for obvious reasons. The new one-piece driveshaft is installed, along with a new pinion propeller yoke. New seals on the T-5 tranny look great, and the new tranny mount makes everything solid. I filled the differential with Amsoil 75-90 severe gear fluid, and I'm waiting for the tranny seals to cure before I add the 3 quarts of amsoil ATF fluid. While I was underneath the car I was able to depict several more vacuum leaks, and I replaced all of the rotten hoses around the charcoal canister, and the purge valve. The purge valve was still good. All in all, the entire vacuum system is new. I also serviced the smog system. No more check engine light! The car will pass California emmissions at this point. That's quite a feat. The only thing I have left to replace is the throttle position sensor. I'll pick that up tomorrow at O'Reilly. Wow! Considering the entire suspension is new and I did a short-block rebuild, I think it would be safe to say that this car is completely functional. Did I mention also that I unclogged the EGR system. Whew! Altogether it was a ton of blood, sweat, and tears. LOL When it gets a paint job and new interior I just might have to enter it into the ROTM. Who knows. For everybody that gave me their advice and wisdom......much thanks, and Merry Christmas to ya!

 

Glad it all worked out, looks like gorn was right on the ball.