The link you posted doesn't show a bolt for f bodies

 

same motor doesnt matter, email or call them, they will tell you the same. its where i got mine form.

my cam is not listed for an fbody either.

 

read threw some of the builds on the v6 sites, where someone was to cheap to buy a new bolt, and there motor got destroyed

 

Does my 3.4L have this type of crank bolt? One that needs to be replaced?

 

I didn't replace my crank pulley bolt when I did my underprive pulleys. And it's fine

 

Sweet thanks Chaotic, It would make sense my bolt dosent even look like the ones that had been previously posted

 

the only ones i had to replace on the 93 lt1 was the head bolts. 93 3.4 part number for center bolt is 14102649 and,,, holey crab,,, 26 bucks and shows as off a 87 2.8 v6 on nalleygmc. does not show as a tty but then head bolts dont either so parts book must not show that. not the 93 version anyways.

 

As a general rule the TTY bolts are used in area with heat issues. Before the use of TTY a designer would have to design longer bolts then add spaces to handle the parts growth. Once you stretch a TTY bolt to a point it become like a spring. In the stretching you take the bolt beyond it elastic point and the material changes. The second time you try to torque the bolt it will twist to much to work right (like you would expect a spring would). NEVER attempt to reuse a TTY bolt. If you tightened once it is done for the second you loosen it.

Let say you have a 1/2” long bolt and you bolting down something ¼” thick. Let’s say this item heats up quickly and expands .015”. Because the bolt is so short, .015” is too much for the metal of the bolt to handle so it permanently stretches. Now when everything cools down the bolt is loose. Since the TTY bolt is in spring mode this expansion is no problem.

Ever unbolt an exhaust manifold and see a real thick washer under the head for no reason? That is the engineer’s way of dealing with expansion. Ever wonder why cheaper thin flanged header bolts always seem to come loose? Now you know why. Also note, most carbon steel bolts react the same way to heat and use the same young's modulus so going from TTY bolts to High end ARP bolt will not work. It will come apart. You can try to lock tight the thread but once the bolt stretches whatever it is holding will be lose cold.

I do understand the engineering better than this but it gets real complicated fast so this is the easiest way to explain it in a thread. TTY bolts where used in air planes long before showing up in cars. I was a little surpised to see TTY on the flywheel of my 3800. Some people confuse torque angle requirement with TTY bolts. Torque angle is just a more accurate way to torque a bolt and most TTY bolts do use torque angle but it is also used on standard bolts also.

 

The bolts fbodyrs96 posted are TTY, and it appears that the one you removed isn't. The telltale sign of a TTY bolt is the self washered head, and the stepped-down diameter between the head area and the threads; thread portion is larger diameter than non-thread portion. Conventional bolts aren't like that. Which then begs the question...are the factory bolts conventional type, and the replacement bolts for whatever reason are TTY?

 

The manual should call out if it is a TTY bolt. On my 96 every where it mention bolting up the fly wheel it had in red (one time use bolts) or something like that.

The step down feature makes the bolts easier to manufacture. The smaller the "control" area the easier it is to monitor but it is not a requirment of design. Even a bolt that is theaded all the way to the head can be TTY.