1997 3.8 driveahaft
#1
1997 3.8 driveahaft
So this is what happened. I woke up and was on my way to work when I noticed a weird sound coming from the rear passenger side. I thought maybe I didn't tighten the tire correctly after replacing it. Shortly after I could hear a loud noise coming from under my passenger seat and I knew it was the driveshaft. I had my gf stepdad look at it (former mechanic) and he said it was the cv joint and the best way to fix it was to replace the whole driveshaft. I have read that instead if the 2 piece driveshaft it had, it would actually be better to put on a 1 piece aluminum from any 4th gen. Is this true? And why would that be better than the 2 piece? Any suggestions or info much appreciated
#4
Do not buy a 2 piece. There is no replacement part for the carrier bearing, so when it fails you will have to replace the whole drive shaft. These cars do not benefit from a 2 piece, idk who's idea that was... but I think they realised it was a bad idea, that's why when you try to replace the bearing they sell you a single piece conversion kit
Grab a steel or aluminum driveshaft from a 4th gen z28/SS, both will work just fine.
Grab a steel or aluminum driveshaft from a 4th gen z28/SS, both will work just fine.
#5
The idea behind the two piece driveshaft was to absorb engine vibrations that the v6 engine puts out, primarily the 3.4.
Later 3.8 models have a one piece driveshaft, not a two piece.
Later 3.8 models have a one piece driveshaft, not a two piece.
#7
Either one, doesn't matter. And yes, it'll slip right in place. The aluminum shaft is about 4 lbs. lighter than the one piece steel shaft, at least mine that I weighed were: 16 vs 12 lbs. You're not going to notice a difference in performance between the two, so it's not worth the extra cost for an aluminum one.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
zackypoo
93-02 General
6
06-16-2010 03:21 AM