Hey Guys i am in need of a new clutch and maybe a new tranny.
My car is a 96 camaro z28 lt1 6spd

here are my issues

I have grinding issue in my T-56 tranny, now ive done a bunch of reserch saying that this tranny has had grinding issue since day 1 from the factory and also have heard high dollar corvettes having the same issue.

Also it shifts hard, my brother has a 93 trans am with the same specs and he has the same thing as mine from tranny to aftermarket shifter,
- I have a B&M short throw shifter that i did not install.

Now I am hear matel cricks when i take off in first gear.

I have owned this car a year and a half now and ready to make some good mods.

I want to get into drifting soon so i would like to know what is the best choice of clutch and flywheel selection,

Car had 110k Miles

 

if the clutch is going it should have opposite effect, clutch should disengage even more if clutch plate is worn down. failing pressure plate or master or slave cylinders could cause what you are seeing. bent or damaged linkage will also do this. and yes it could be internal, syncros could be toast or bearing dragging.

 

Just had the same kind of symptoms with my jeep, but can't hear yours to compare the sound/feel. My pilot bearing disintegrated and the needle bearings were a combination of some being gone to others being out of place. The ones that were out of place was enough to cause friction between the crank and input shaft, to where the input shaft wouldn't stop spinning when the clutch was pushed in, which resulted in hard to difficult/impossible shifting, and nasty noises. Everything else with the clutch setup was working fine, but worn enough to need a replacement anyway.

 

Ok well I also have a REALLY hard time putting it into reverse as well, would the shifter the the issue of that problem? And also what are some good recommendations of a good clutch that I can clutch kick and not have any issues with the clutch going out? I plan on rebuilding tranny and clutch this winter and if I am in budget maybe a better built cam

 

Start the car up with the clutch pushed in. Let it run a minute but keep the clutch pushed in. Put it in reverse, is it just hard to go in or does it grind. Grinding is from the clutch not fully disengaging, Hard to shift with NO grinding is more likely a wear/damage issue in the shifting forks or shafts.

 

It going in hard with no grinding. In the year 96 did the t 56 have synchronizers? And is it possible that is what's causing my tranny to grind at low rpm's in gears 1-6? And not reverse? Because I don't like the grind at low rpm's, it bugs me but I have to live it or fix, because rebuilding the tranny is not on my to do list at the moment.


Would a "simple fix just be replace the shifter" to help with the shifting?

 

Gears 1-6 have syncs. Reverse does not. When a clutch does not disengage fully reverse is always the worst grinding gear. Sound like, as Camaro 69 said you pilot is shot but either way it is "chicken egg"

if you have been driving it like this for any amount of time then it is time for a rebuild If the pilot is loose it will cause play in the front main bearing, also play in the counter shaft can cause this issue. It is best to just find someone that knows these transmission really well to go through it. What you do not want to do is open it up and just fix one thing. The thing you fix might make the transmission better short term but if you repair a symptom and do not repair the cause then you are wasting your time. If something breaks in a manual trans the repair costs can triple very quickly.

 

What would it cost to get it rebuilt? Or would I be better just buying a remanufactered one and sending mine in as a core transmission? It runs good and shifts but shifts hard.

 

You should ask around your area. Maybe at a car show. I am not aware of an exchange program like with automatics. If you find one let us know. If they have one the price is going to be high. A manual transmission without damaged gears is a easy rebuild. Once the trans is out its 4 hours plus $200 in parts if you buy really good ones. Every area is different for labor it could be aware from 200-500 bucks. So you are looking 400-700 if you pull the trans. Of course that not what a dealership would charge but a small non-chain trans shop should work with you.

Once you start breaking gears the part cost can get crazy. I have seen counter gears alone cost almost $1000. With broken gears a $2500 cost is not uncommon. That is why I think it would be hard to have remanufactured one for cheap. Everyone with gear damage would go that way and the manufacture would end up with a bunch of broken gears and cores that cost more to fix then they can get for the rebuilt ones.

 

Ok, if I have it rebuilt any recommendations for some high performance rebuild kits so I can really drop the clutch and drift and stuff like that. And also what about a good clutch as well.

I defiantly have enough power to strip out the rear end gears, but I want to be able to trust my equipment in racing conditions, and as well as being a daily driver.