Front Strut replacement ?

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  #11  
Old 03-19-2013, 04:29 PM
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may be a bit different for the 98-02. my master cylinder moved without much bending. your at least 4 years newer and yours may have been garaged and his not. hard to tell. mine were pretty rusty but came lose and where good enough to clean, paint and re use.
 
  #12  
Old 03-19-2013, 05:51 PM
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Yeah mine was owned by my uncle, and garaged since 2001 though 2011
 
  #13  
Old 03-19-2013, 07:48 PM
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I moved mine without doing the brake lines. The new bolts were normal hex head bolts, so I can get on them with a wrench, instead of a torx.

I would imagine mine were so rusted because we put 3.5 trillion tons of rock salt on the roads every winter.

Stupid snow.

You will need to bleed the lines now though.

Glad to hear yours weren't so rusted and were able to be re-used.
 
  #14  
Old 03-19-2013, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy Bilyea
I moved mine without doing the brake lines. The new bolts were normal hex head bolts, so I can get on them with a wrench, instead of a torx.

I would imagine mine were so rusted because we put 3.5 trillion tons of rock salt on the roads every winter.

Stupid snow.

You will need to bleed the lines now though.

Glad to hear yours weren't so rusted and were able to be re-used.
lmao....3.5 trillion tons....
 
  #15  
Old 03-19-2013, 09:52 PM
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For the record, I don't drive my Camaro in the winter, but I suspect a previous owner did. There was just too much rot when we did the body/paint for it to have been a "stored inside" car in the winter.

She's all purty again now though.
 
  #16  
Old 03-20-2013, 12:07 AM
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I called several places and a guy a few miles away can fit the new struts with my springs for $40 for two. I am only going to take one out at a time because I dont want to leave my car on the jackstands that long, I have a gravel driveway and it rained alot recently and I dont want to risk a catastrophe. I ll just be paitent, get the left side done, bleed the brakes. Then do the right side
 
  #17  
Old 03-20-2013, 12:08 AM
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The brake lines that I had to remove were both main lines to the ABS box. If you Open one bleeder, say the left front. Will that let all the air out because I havnt used my brake to let the air into the other lines?
 
  #18  
Old 03-20-2013, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Z28Camaro98
The brake lines that I had to remove were both main lines to the ABS box. If you Open one bleeder, say the left front. Will that let all the air out because I havnt used my brake to let the air into the other lines?
I assume you undid the 2 lines shown in this pic?



If so, you will need to bleed the whole system.

One of these will speed that process up a LOT.

 
  #19  
Old 03-20-2013, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Z28Camaro98
you say no need to remove any brake lines? How is that possible with them all being metal. You would bend the crap out of them trying to move the master cylinder off of the studs. So I had to remove moth of them prom the cylinder. I suppose I will have to bleed each caliper now. I need to flush out the old fluid anyway.

I got the driver side out. My mounts look much better than the ones pictured. Not sure why yours are so rusted.
Pic below shows master cylinder removed without disconnecting the brake lines, or bending the crap out of them. Your just moving it out of the way enough to get to the fasteners underneath.

Originally Posted by Randy Bilyea
 
  #20  
Old 03-20-2013, 12:24 PM
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Yeah I had to take those two off. Once you remover the nuts for the master cylinder, you have to pull it off the studs, ON mine that is atleast two inches back and then up. I tried to do what you did but I could only move mine maybe a half inch before i saw they bending.
 


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