does the sound change speed when the trans shifts to a higher gear

 

Craby,
Driveshaft carrier bearing...I originally discarded that after researching for my 'little *****' and finding that my DCB uses rollers, but I will do more research and reconsider.
I hadn't noticed a change in sound as the car shifted gears (automatic transmission, nerve damage in my back prevents me from clutching, dammit, lol) and I've been babying her fiercely, afraid of causing irreparable or more costly damage. But I will listen closely for it from now on.
With the increase/decrease in repetition of the sound in relation to my speed, I initially thought it might be wheel bearings, but again, my 'little *****' didn't match up with the car's specs, and I did have a mechanic do the 'wiggle' test and he said it was good.
On replacement of the shocks and mounts, KYB doesn't offer the coil over shock for my car, much less a complete assembly, and with my limited budget (disability) I need to try to reduce the labor costs. NAPA has an assembly brand Proformer, manufactured by SenSen for $138 each. Partsgeek has TRQ $225 a pair, PRT $102 each and Gabriel $135 each. ANY advice on those options, or recommendations on a trustworthy website or store would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your time and effort in helping me.

 

Always check Rock auto for prices, You may have two separate issues. The little ***** kind of sound like the thrust plate at the top of the strut. That falls inline with the clicking when you turn the wheel. This other noise, can you feel it or just hear it? Did you say you had a rear leak? Maybe a pinion seal? Carrier bearing is a very common issue. I eliminated the one on my 96, Normally I keep things near stock but when I researched it it seemed even GM eliminated it from the newer 3800's without changing anything I could find. You can run a full length driveshaft out of any 4th gen and many 3rd gens. I put the aluminum one it mine. You used to be able to pick them up on ebay for $100.

To check the carrier just get under the car grab the driveshaft and see how much you can move it. If its making noise you would most likely have a decent amount of play in it.

 

Thanks Gorn, will check both rockauto and shaking the driveshaft.
The slight leak at the rear diff was resolved at servicing with a new gasket.

 

I replaced the front coilover shock assemblies with the Gabriel's. She does ride a 'bit' smoother now, but no real difference I can tellright now, will have to wait and see how she does on the highway, after a few more repairs.

The old assemblies appear intact and probably still in decent shape?
They are the factory DeCarbon shocks with the F41 suspension package springs. Don't know what to do with them now.

As far as 'my little *****' (ball bearings) I had found around my car, I think I found the culprit...just today...
1. One of my garage door rollers is warped and lost some bearings.
2. One of the caster wheels on my dolly broke, also losing bearings.
LOL, after months of trying find the cause on my car, it appears she had nothing to do with it. At least I learned a lot more about my car and I'm happy with that knowledge.

 

She's still whooshing. After reading a recent post on here (past week or so), I'm thinking I need to jack her up and hand inspect the tires for flat spots. She did sit for a while due to medical issues and then the covid lock down. I did start her up at least once a week, but wasn't always able to drive her, even around the block.

So, something to check out.

 

Found out the intermediate steering shaft bottom u-joint connection to the rack is what's making the noise.
What a PITA trying to find a replacement! Had to buy a USED one from Hawks, with no idea how many miles it already has on it. So, thanks Hawks, but dammit.
And NO, it did NOT HAVE A RAG JOINT. That was half the frickin problem. Even the GM parts sites ALL listed the parts/numbers for the rag joint shafts. I had to take a picture of the one on the car and search ebay for a matching one just to get pointed in the right direction. (Pics to follow)

Now, I'm hoping it's as easy as it looks to replace, just 2 bolts. But no, I'm not holding breath that it will be, lol.

And why has Dorman created NEW intermediate steering shafts for the 2000 Monte Carlo, Cobalt, Impala, etc....but NOT CAMARO?

And...there is NOT ONE SINGLE YOUTUBE VIDEO on replacing it? The only 4th gen camaro ones they have are for the rag joints. The only steering shaft videos are for the pin or plastic bushings causing a wobbly steering wheel.

Wish me luck, tips and tricks much appreciated.

 

 

I also found the source of my oil leak, I hope.
The mechanic that did my coilover assemblies said it looked like the valve cover gaskets. There is oil gunked on the covers and the bolts on both sides of the engine, but part of the intake manifold cover also has oil spray around the the PCV Valve cover.
So, it took some searching, but I was able to get replacement gaskets for cover plate. After replacing the valve, I cleaned off some the gunk with watered-down Dawn, a toothbrush, rinsed and wiped off with shop towels...hoping when I drove her again there would be no more leaks, or I could at least find where it was coming from, as it all looked like old oil gunk, no fresh oil residue was/is visible, but there was a growing puddle under the car every day, not much, just a tablespoon or so, but I had no leaks, at all for 22 years until the Valvoline quick change place my cousin took her to. I digress...

It appears to be from the Engine Oil Filler Tube connection to the valve cover.


I was bumping into it while wiping down to valve cover and the damn thing was just moving all over the place.
And once again, hours of searching for a discontinued part, or even replacement orings, no joy yet. I'm hoping the YouTube-rs are right and I can just remove the neck altogether and just screw the cap directly to the valve cover. But they were on LS1 and Silverado.

Any tips or advice appreciated

 

Stock DeCarbon with F41 springs replaced with Gabriel