soooooo i have a problem. i went out side to go get gas this morning and my car wouldn't start. i drove it last night and it was fine. its not the battery and the gas gauge said 1/4 of a tank but i know from experience not to trust gm gas gauges, so i put about a gallon of gas in it(that's all i had at my disposal) thinking that would be enough to go 2.5 miles to the gas station. but it still wont start. its not the battery and i hear the fuel pump running. i just replaced the whole module in the tank (fuel pump and sender) so i'm scared to try and "prime" the fuel system but turning the ignition on and letting the fuel pump run for a few seconds then turning it off a few times because there's only a gallon of gas in the tank and i literally just paid $700 to get the old one replaced because it burned out less than 2 weeks ago. i don't know what to do.

 

Better get a ride to get more gas and you may need a fuel filter.

 

Shocks not struts and yes those are cheap, probably too cheap and you'll get what you paid for. For compare my set of 4 Koni sports were $800 for the set and there are more expensive shocks out there.

 

what are some good ones for a reasonable price?

 

Strano Performance Parts - Part Details

 

Did you get it started? If its the airtec unit I have seen the factory installed hose slip off in the sending unit. This will give the pump sound but no fuel pressure.

This is about as cheap as I would go on a 4th gen
https://www.ebay.com/itm/KYB-AGX-Adj...tVHy62&vxp=mtr

 

update i figured it out. when i was just doing basic things around my car i was replacing fuses and putting the correct fuses in the correct spots. and the spot for the injector fuse is supposted to be a 5 amp fuse but there was a 15 amp fuse in the spot is i replaced it with a 5 which caused it not to work. so eventually i back tracked my steps and put the 15 amp back in and it ran fine. i don't know why the diagram would say that the injectors used a 5 amp fuse but i got it working.

 

it should not make a difference so long at voltage is getting to the system. i would suspect a bad fuse or bad connection at the fuse. make sure the tabs in the fuse box are closing far enough to get a good connection between the fuse plugins. maybe try a different 5 amp fuse.

 

If you are blowing the recommend fuse it means the circuit is drawing too much power. You should figure this out, for now try a 10 amp fuse.

The way a circuit is designed with the fuse is the weak point. As a general rule the rest of the wires and electronics can handle twice the amps the fuse can handle. Meaning the wires will handle 10 amps power before they start to over heat.

As a wire gets hot it increase its resistance which means the circuit needs more amps. more amps means more heat over a extended drive this can cause issues. If the wire reaches melting point it can melt the entire length of wire. That is around 1000 degs and if melting copper touches something that will burn your car will catch fire. Most dash fires come from improper fuses or I should say they caused by something going bad and an improper fuse lets the fire happen.

This could just be a connector or ground issue and you may be only drawing 6 amps. A system fuses at 5 amps should not draw more then 2.5 amps of power with everything working right.

IMO step one should be testing the circuit. I have never used one of these but I have not had a reason to buy one.
https://www.harborfreight.com/30-amp...ter-67724.html

This should give you an idea where you are. At 6 or 7 amps the car should be safe to drive over 10 amps I would not risk it. This will also allow you to clean connectors and know when its fixed.

On a side note I would track down the ground and feel the relays to see if they are hot then clean the tabs (connectors ) on the relays. It could be a connection or you may have a relay going bad.

Good luck.

 

but that's the issue its not blowing the fuse it just doesn't work with a 5 amp fuse. if it was blowing to fuse i would know where to start trying to fix it.