Okay so I got the Camaro back together today. I started it up and it ran really rough so I shut it down. It would idle but it was really rough. Realized I had two spark plug wires reversed. Put them in the right spots and started it up again. The idle was still rough but not quite as bad. Double checked all the plug wires. Everything checked out okay except they all seemed to fit kinda loose on the plugs. So I pulled them all off and crimped them just a hair with some channel locks. Put them all back on and still wouldn't run for crap. And this time it wouldn't even idle. Would backfire and all kinds of crazy jazz. So I pulled the plug wires, and the plugs only to find that all of my plug wires were soaked in fuel except for the one in cylinder #6...

So here are my options.. I didn't gap the plugs when I bought them. Just threw them in. And those plug wires seemed loose on the plugs. So I'm guessing I should gap my plugs and buy new wires? Anyone have any other ideas what it could be?

 

Backfiring could be due to the intake valves not closing all the way. Valve lash adjustment is set too tight, too loose, or both perhaps? What procedure did you follow?

 

A friend of mine did it for me. We followed the instructions in the Haynes manual.

 

Well, that explains it then.
Btw, backfiring is when it comes out the carb/tb. When pops come out the exhaust it's called afterfire. Was it coming out both ends?

 

Ok it was afterfire then. Just popping in the exhaust. And what do you mean "well that explains it"???

 

I've had nothing but lackluster results in the (distant) past using the textbook procedure, which I presume you used the two-step method. I'll never do it that way again. That way is fine just to get the engine going, as long as you plan on following up with the "engine running" procedure. The "on the heel of the lobe" way is the most accurate way to do the static adjustment, but it's more time consuming.....so what! Hang on, I'll get the link outta my bookmarks....

 

Ugh I have to pull the upper intake to get the valve covers off I think.

 

Eek! I hate to run you through something if that's not what it is, but it sounds like valves....from here at least!
This write up explains pretty well what the cam and valvetrain is doing. But it's for a V8, so you can't follow that adjustment procedure: Engine Valve Adjustment Procedure - The Right Way
Check this video though, it's helpful:

 

This is the other one I was looking for. I would consider it a little more precise than the one in the video because you are adjusting each valve one at a time. That's not to say the video procedure won't work. Use whichever one you're more comfortable with: How to adjust valves on a chevy small block engine

 

Ill try that tomorrow.