still gets hot
#21
I am confused is that not to high ,are you using a laser on the hose to get those temps would that not be boiling over that high ,I use the top radiator hose ,then again .my engeine set up ,is that what gorn meens when he says boiling points an pressurized system can be that hot without boiling over ,212 is boiling point of water I guess I would make sence that antifreeze is made to go higher temps ,learning yes ,mine seems hot enough at 195 ,when mine got hot it was just over 200 degrees, with good antifreeze though my thermostat is 160 to 180 range in the 406
Last edited by 95 camaro 406; 05-29-2015 at 06:21 AM.
#22
Pressurizing the cooling system increases the coolant boiling temperature.
Example: at atmosphere, water boils at 212°F, pressurize the system by 16 PSI, boiling point raised to 256°F; each 1 PSI increases temp by 3°F.
Most common A/C equipped vehicles come with 20 PSI cap. Top hose will be tight - hard to squeeze - when engine at operating temp, aka. 200°F and above, 272°F will be boiling point with 20# cap.
USE TOWEL WHEN SQUEEZING PREVENTING BURNED HAND
Example: at atmosphere, water boils at 212°F, pressurize the system by 16 PSI, boiling point raised to 256°F; each 1 PSI increases temp by 3°F.
Most common A/C equipped vehicles come with 20 PSI cap. Top hose will be tight - hard to squeeze - when engine at operating temp, aka. 200°F and above, 272°F will be boiling point with 20# cap.
USE TOWEL WHEN SQUEEZING PREVENTING BURNED HAND
#23
that's interesting,but I still thought only race cars would run that high,mabey my thermostat is to low ,though the heat comeing from the engine on a 80 degree day is enough for me,thanks for that info ,? so then the temps in radiator would be higher then the on the hose from outside ,?so to boil over it has to get how high temps, ok got that 272 ,an how does one take the temps from inside to know how hot its is inside ,I guess I am playing it safe ,my engine builder said 160 to 180 was fine ,wich is more like to 190 on a hot day .my gauge has only been in for about a week an had not gone above 190
Last edited by 95 camaro 406; 05-30-2015 at 12:23 PM.
#24
that's interesting,but I still thought only race cars would run that high,mabey my thermostat is to low ,though the heat comeing from the engine on a 80 degree day is enough for me,thanks for that info ,? so then the temps in radiator would be higher then the on the hose from outside ,?so to boil over it has to get how high temps, ok got that 272 ,an how does one take the temps from inside to know how hot its is inside ,I guess I am playing it safe ,my engine builder said 160 to 180 was fine ,wich is more like to 190 on a hot day .my gauge has only been in for about a week an had not gone above 190
#25
Codes 14 & 15 contradict each other, 14 shows excessive high temp, whole 15 shows excessive low temp. This could be due to a bad ECT sensor, or a problem with the lead from PCM pin C5 to Pin A on the ECT, look for a short to ground or an open circuit caused by damaged wire or poor connection.
Code 26 points to the purge solenoid in the EVAP system. Start by checking fguse #6 (under hood, and verify it is getting power when ignition is ON.
Code 27 points to the EGR solenoid valve control. Again look at fuse #6.
Code 70 points to the AC compressor control relay
Code 77 points to the No 1 fan contrtol relay, again check fuse #6
Code 84 points to the 3-2 control solenoid on transmission
Code 26 points to the purge solenoid in the EVAP system. Start by checking fguse #6 (under hood, and verify it is getting power when ignition is ON.
Code 27 points to the EGR solenoid valve control. Again look at fuse #6.
Code 70 points to the AC compressor control relay
Code 77 points to the No 1 fan contrtol relay, again check fuse #6
Code 84 points to the 3-2 control solenoid on transmission
#26
what kinda miles you got on the engine ,did you check on warm day for light smoky condensation from exhaust ,I was doing same thing with mine,i relized no matter how many times I flushed the then 19 year old radiator ,that is was full of bad stuff that when I did the flush just made it worse ,it seems the 14 an 15 codes one to hot one to cold ,was what was happening with mine ,,it just sounds so similar to mine ,then found was head gasket,hope not for your case ,it can be quickly found though if that is the case ,mine to rarely sees above 195 too,again I was told unless raceing don't need temps to high
Last edited by 95 camaro 406; 06-01-2015 at 01:44 PM.
#27
Codes 14 & 15 contradict each other, 14 shows excessive high temp, whole 15 shows excessive low temp. This could be due to a bad ECT sensor, or a problem with the lead from PCM pin C5 to Pin A on the ECT, look for a short to ground or an open circuit caused by damaged wire or poor connection.
Code 26 points to the purge solenoid in the EVAP system. Start by checking fguse #6 (under hood, and verify it is getting power when ignition is ON.
Code 27 points to the EGR solenoid valve control. Again look at fuse #6.
Code 70 points to the AC compressor control relay
Code 77 points to the No 1 fan contrtol relay, again check fuse #6
Code 84 points to the 3-2 control solenoid on transmission
Code 26 points to the purge solenoid in the EVAP system. Start by checking fguse #6 (under hood, and verify it is getting power when ignition is ON.
Code 27 points to the EGR solenoid valve control. Again look at fuse #6.
Code 70 points to the AC compressor control relay
Code 77 points to the No 1 fan contrtol relay, again check fuse #6
Code 84 points to the 3-2 control solenoid on transmission
if i can get the ac compressor to come on i can charge my a/c with freon and then my overheating will be solved because the a/c turns on the fans. so code 77 u think that either b1 or b4 is faulty? because there is a new relay in there. for fuse #6 i will change it out with another relay. how do i verify it is getting power?
#28
if i can get the ac compressor to come on i can charge my a/c with freon and then my overheating will be solved because the a/c turns on the fans. so code 77 u think that either b1 or b4 is faulty? because there is a new relay in there. for fuse #6 i will change it out with another relay. how do i verify it is getting power?
http://shbox.com/1/hvac_compressor_control.jpg
but be sure to have the refrigerant can connected so you can start adding
#30
well in the mean time i am trying to install the jet performance temperature cooling fan kit. and i cannot seem to reach the water jacket plug that is located int he passenger side cylinder head between spark plugs 6 and 8 it is very hard and i cannot find a 5/16 square tube anywhere at any hardware store. is there anywhere else i can put this sensor? the exhaust is in the way and it is literally impossible for me to reach it