Starter motor issue
#1
Starter motor issue
I just replaced my old starter out of my 94. 3.4L,The overrunning clutch was going out.. Sense then I've been through three new starters ,2 of the same brand and one of another.they all have the same issue..From what I can tell, the gear on the armature shaft hits my flywheel As I turn the key . It takes 3 to 10 times before it will mesh with the flywheel and turn over the motor.. So do i shim it tell it works or what.?...Battery is good and showing 12+ volts..connection are good ,tight and clean . It doesn't make sence....any replies will be helpful. Ignition looks good as well..I just changed the starter and nothing els was touched.
Last edited by surfhppy; 09-15-2012 at 08:18 PM.
#4
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,462
The failing overrunning clutch most likey destoryed your Flex plate. Check the teeth on the flex plate. My guess is some of them are missing or half gone. It is pretty common if you run a bad starter for any amount of time.
#5
gets the best of me
Last edited by surfhppy; 09-15-2012 at 08:09 PM. Reason: mistaken
#8
You changed the starter on a 3.4 3 or 4 times??? Poor you. That job suuuuuuuucks. I've done it on my 94 a few times, first when I pulled the engine for rebuilding, and later when the overrunning clutch (aka "Bendix") went bad. Both those times I was sure that I had to drop the y-pipe to get the starter out and that was pretty horrible.
The last time (and I can't remember why I had to do it) I discovered that you *don't* have to drop the y-pipe.
You completely disconnect the starter, manipulate it to stand it on end, and then rotate it to point the solenoid inboard and slight down. The freakin' thing slid right out to the rear! I was thrilled.
Now this was on a auto trans car where the fluid lines are totally in the way. A stick car might not have the problem.
You've "barred" the engine all the way around to see all the flywheel teeth? And all the starter pinion teeth look good? Then there's two thing look at:
With the starter out you should be able to use your thumb to rotate those pinion teeth in one direction but not the other.
The other possibility is much worse: the flywheel could be cracked at the crankshaft mounting area (not uncommon on high mileage GM products) and the flywhel is not rotating "true." So as it is turned by the starter, the flywheel teeth are moving fore/aft and may disengage the starter. Hope it's not that...
The last time (and I can't remember why I had to do it) I discovered that you *don't* have to drop the y-pipe.
You completely disconnect the starter, manipulate it to stand it on end, and then rotate it to point the solenoid inboard and slight down. The freakin' thing slid right out to the rear! I was thrilled.
Now this was on a auto trans car where the fluid lines are totally in the way. A stick car might not have the problem.
You've "barred" the engine all the way around to see all the flywheel teeth? And all the starter pinion teeth look good? Then there's two thing look at:
With the starter out you should be able to use your thumb to rotate those pinion teeth in one direction but not the other.
The other possibility is much worse: the flywheel could be cracked at the crankshaft mounting area (not uncommon on high mileage GM products) and the flywhel is not rotating "true." So as it is turned by the starter, the flywheel teeth are moving fore/aft and may disengage the starter. Hope it's not that...
#10
Here's how to check and shim the starter: Starter Shimming