Well, return line was a bit rusty. Nothing chunky but prolly bad enough to clog an injector. Tested pump before pulling out of tank. It held again at whatever level (psi) I wanted with maybe a 1 or 2lb pressure loss per minute. However, the test line I tapped into intake fuel line to bypass rail isn't the tightest fit. The "new" tank fuel was a bit reddish so I'm going to drain it, wipe it and throw 10 gallons of fresh petrol in it. So, unless consensus is to replace 2nd new pump with 3rd new pump I'll blow out out the intake from both ends b4 replacing 2nd new filter regardless. Should I let some vinegar or something like citric evaporust sit in the open lines for a few hours/days before sealing them up? I'm hoping injector screens aren't clogged but if they are, the rail will at least pop right out.

 

I was able to keep engine running with slight accelerator pedal depression. There was ZERO hesitation, sputtering, etc.. As I said, it sounded and felt better than ever. I really don't want to have wait on a third pump to arrive.

--So, if injector screens were clogged, it would run/sound at least a little crappy, no? My issue really sounds vacuum or sensor related.
--Can I check for individual injector spray "strength" without removing them?
--Are screens universal in size. I have "A-Premium" Chinese specials from amazon.
--Also, if the pump check valve was bad, would it hold pressure so well (50+) when I completely isolated it with a bypass rig & jumper wire?
--Should I let some vinegar or something like evaporust sit in the open lines for a few hours/days before sealing them up?
--The "Evap Cannister Purge Control Solenoid Valve" was completely clogged as well as the vacuum line end connected to its top port which was also jam packed (a half inch or so in from the lines end) with carbony-looking charcoal granules b4 I cleaned it. The diagram shows it isolated to the intake manifold and the pcv valve on the engine side. Would this affect idle?

?
--

 

evap canister has gone to crap once that happens the charcoal can get in everything its connected to and can effect idle. the canister has charcoal in it and when liquid fuel gets in it the charcoal gets into the system.
vacuum leak in the intake manifold gasket area is common with aging v6s in the 4th gen. never tried it but have seen on here, while engine running, guys spraying start fluid lightly in areas like gasket areas and hoses to see if idle changes indicating a leak.
personally I would consider injectors ok at this point and go back to them if things start pointing towards them.

 

Gracias craby. Do u think the pump is still ok then, given the parameters I laid out?

 

Ok, cleaned tank, blew out all lines, installed new filter, put pump back in, filled it with 7 gallons of gas and none of it mattered. After priming a few times to get fuel circulating, it fired up as before but this time it idled perfectly. I stepped out with it running and noticed there was a huge vacuum leak. Then, I remembered, earlier, I pulled off the front "t" fitting that goes to the pcv valve and the solenoid. It makes it easier to twist on the fuel pressure gauge connector. Well, lucky I did because as soon as I connected it, the car died immediately. Disconnected it and boom, it idles great. Of course it whistles like crazy. At least I know now that the effing *** clowns (Todd & Co.) at Today's Technology in Carbondale, IL either GROSSLY misdiagnosed my car a second time 15 years ago OR they tried to rip me off $1500+. Neither bodes well. Their first diagnosis I don't even remember (who cares) was something less than $300. The second diagnosis was a bald cam lobe (intake cyl #1) which was $1500. Well, I could not afford it at the time and parked it for the last FIFTEEN F*CKING YEARS!!! The only thing wrong was the injector(s), And, probably only one injector at the time. Anything else: tank cleaning, contaminated fuel system, pump, & regulator was my fault/neglect and a direct result of the car sitting (outside) on the edge of the Shawnee Forest for 15 years.

That said:
I assume a new pcv valve should fix the vacuum issue?

 

it may need to relearn settings for the iac (idle air control) valve or it may be unhappy and need cleaning or replaced

 

Yeah, IAC was a fairly common recommendation across forums. Thanks craby.

 

IAC it was. Just cleaned it & the port and boom. Ironically, it still idles great but it doesn't quite have same "feel" it did with the vacuum disconnected. The IAC was chunky filthy as well as the port it sat in. I really need to clean the whole throttle body. I'm also getting ready to flush the cooling system and scrape off all the rust I can on the rotors & drums. Then, I can finally test drive it.

 

Radiator and block was surprisingly not cruddy at all, just VERY orange. I've got the thermostat housing and hoses disconnected for a nice 10-15 min flush with a hose. When I finish I was thinking of sealing everything back up and a pouring a couple of gallons of vinegar or evaporust in it, start it a few minutes and let it sit overnight. Then rinse and repeat if necessary. Thoughts/advice? Also, I put 5 quarts of nice fresh Pennzoil Synthetic Platinum (Project Farm-recommended). Re: Tranny fluid change..as an old school shade tree mechanic for 45 years, I don't know how many times I've heard how old fluid and it's "marriage" to the old seals/bands/whatever. I've never understood why a lower viscosity fluid would ever be a positive for any tranny's non-metal internal parts (or is it detergent-related?). Anyway, because of that, I am leery of draining the tranny fluid (yet). I won't hit the road yet until I know. Or, has this always been one of the million fallacies my generation fabricated (the food pyramid, an honest politician, trickle-down economics, etc.) and I should order a new screen and some synthetic fluid this week?

 

could have been the orange antifreeze, do not mix orange with green. if you flushed it good including the heater core then you can use whatever you wish. I use the green. mixing the two will cause problems. it gels and plugs things up. it would be nice to know what trans fluid is in it. changing filter does not change all the fluid, maybe half so using same type would be good. how does it look, if it looks brownish it may be getting unhappy