Hey guys, i made a post about my radiator a while ago. And well, turns out that i had to get a whole new radiator. So I did that, and new hoses, as well as a new t-stat for a couple bucks extra (low temp)

Here's the kicker.

Now my car gets hot when I idle. I know why too, my fans aren't pulling the air back... because they aren't turning.

The motors are fine.
The wires leading up to the fans are fine.
The fuse relays and fuses are fine.

I recently had the "low coolant" light removed, because i replaced it twice in two months, and the guys said GM basically messed up.

SO after all of that, I guess the only thing left for it to be is in the PCM, or is there I'm something I'm missing.

I have a 1996 Z28 by the way.

Thanks folks

 

hey i have a question for you... is the low coolant light a red box with an arrow pointing to water? Kuz i just drained my radiator and filled up my resevoir and radiator again with new coolant and i getthat little red boxon a rare occasion...

 

yep, that's the one.

Apparently the sensors that GM designed are horrible. so just watch your temp gauge.

 

The fans are factory set to come on at 220 degrees. Just because you replaced the thermostat, it is not going to make the engine run cooler at idle or at low speed. It will run cooler at high speed when the air gets rammed into the radiator. If you want the engine to run cooler at slow speed the PCM will need to be reprogrammed. Truthfully, making the engine run 20 deg. cooler makes little difference in power production.

 

Its your low thermostat you put in. Modern engines are designed to operate within a normal temperature of 195-200 degrees Farenheit. The thermostat must be doing its job to keep the engine's average temperature within the normal range. If the thermostat fails to open, it will effectively block the flow of coolant and the engine will overheat. Using a cooler thermostat (160 or 180) can increase fuel and oil consumption, ring wear, emissions, and takes longers for your engine to warm up. On newer vehicles with computerized engine controls, the wrong thermostat can prevent the computer system from going into closed loop resulting in major performance and emissions problems if the engine fails to reach its normal operating temperature.

 

My red "low coolant" light came on two days ago also! Maybe it's the warmer weather?

Anyhow; I checked the coolant and yes, it is low. I added some.

After a few short drives I notices some water/coolant on the front right side of the car on the floor (just below the radiator cap).

I can see a very small hairline crack in the plastic radiator tank with a small line of dried coolant from what appears to be a leak. I am going to try to replace the radiator first.

Does anyone know where I could find step by step instructions? I would rather not run down and purchase a Chilton's manual.

I found an OEM Delco radiator for $104. Does anyone know where I can find a lower price one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...TODAY.m238.lVI

 

autozone.com has the alldata section on how to replace parts. its free

 

Thanks for the link. The information is very helpful.

On this particular application there is one step where it says:[*] Loosen the receiver dehydrator bracket. [/ol]Where is this at? There are no photos to help at all? I can't seem to remove the radiator from the condensor.

Any help would be great!