No headlights
#11
06-23-2014, 07:53 PM
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Tokeland, Washington
Posts: 21,672
here you go, copied from here https://camaroforums.com/forum/93-02...A%2A%2A-59143/
The teardown!
First thing you need to do is remove the panel directly below your steering wheel. It is held in by two Philips head screws and two 7mm bolts. Once it is loose it will pull straight out. There is a harness on the upper right hand corner for your rear defrost (if applicable) that will need to be disconnected to fully remove the panel. Here is a picture showing where all the screws and bolts are.
Next thing you need to do is remove the stereo trim. You can do so by accessing all of the 7mm screws in the glove-box and under the panel you just removed. Pics below show the 5 screws that need removed. After taking out the screws the trim will pull straight out.
Next on the agenda is to remove the driver’s side A-pillar. Very easy and does not require the removal of any screws or bolts. You’ll want to start at the back of the pillar and work your way forward. The picture below is a great starting point. There are three metal clips that hold the top of it in place. You can pop it outward (while the door is OPEN) with a flat head screwdriver. After the top is loose, you can pop the bottom half out with your hands by pulling it toward your passenger’s side front seat.
After this is done you will be able to lift up the driver’s side of your dash pad. Many people say that in order to remove your gauge cluster, the dash pad has to come out of the car. That’s false. There are two 7mm screws under the very front of the dash pad that holds the gauge cluster trim on. This is where your 7mm wrench will come in handy. It’s easier to fit under the dash pad than a 7mm socket and ratchet. While pulling the driver’s side of the dash pad up, be VERY CAREFUL. They are very brittle and will crack with little to no force. Start on your left side and work your way over to the defrost vent. Here are a couple pics to help. My dash was already cracked so I was a little rough with it.
While the dash pad is up about an inch, you can access the two upper screws holding the gauge cluster trim panel in place. Here’s a pic of where the first screw is located.
The other is located about three inches to the left of my thumb in this picture. I couldn’t maneuver my phone around to get a clean shot of the screw. This will give you an idea though
The other three screws that hold the gauge cluster trim panel in place are very easy accessible. Here are pictures showing where they are.
After these three screws are removed, you can then pull the trim piece straight out and up over the steering wheel. This is easily accomplished if the steering wheel is all the way down. Before pulling the trim panel all the way out you will have to dismantle the headlight switch from it. It is very easy and requires no tools. Basically just push in on the top half of it, firmly, and it will pop out the back of the trim panel.
Once the gauge cluster trim piece is out of the way, you will be able to access the four 7mm screws that hold in the gauge cluster. They are as follows:
The teardown!
First thing you need to do is remove the panel directly below your steering wheel. It is held in by two Philips head screws and two 7mm bolts. Once it is loose it will pull straight out. There is a harness on the upper right hand corner for your rear defrost (if applicable) that will need to be disconnected to fully remove the panel. Here is a picture showing where all the screws and bolts are.
Next thing you need to do is remove the stereo trim. You can do so by accessing all of the 7mm screws in the glove-box and under the panel you just removed. Pics below show the 5 screws that need removed. After taking out the screws the trim will pull straight out.
Next on the agenda is to remove the driver’s side A-pillar. Very easy and does not require the removal of any screws or bolts. You’ll want to start at the back of the pillar and work your way forward. The picture below is a great starting point. There are three metal clips that hold the top of it in place. You can pop it outward (while the door is OPEN) with a flat head screwdriver. After the top is loose, you can pop the bottom half out with your hands by pulling it toward your passenger’s side front seat.
After this is done you will be able to lift up the driver’s side of your dash pad. Many people say that in order to remove your gauge cluster, the dash pad has to come out of the car. That’s false. There are two 7mm screws under the very front of the dash pad that holds the gauge cluster trim on. This is where your 7mm wrench will come in handy. It’s easier to fit under the dash pad than a 7mm socket and ratchet. While pulling the driver’s side of the dash pad up, be VERY CAREFUL. They are very brittle and will crack with little to no force. Start on your left side and work your way over to the defrost vent. Here are a couple pics to help. My dash was already cracked so I was a little rough with it.
While the dash pad is up about an inch, you can access the two upper screws holding the gauge cluster trim panel in place. Here’s a pic of where the first screw is located.
The other is located about three inches to the left of my thumb in this picture. I couldn’t maneuver my phone around to get a clean shot of the screw. This will give you an idea though
The other three screws that hold the gauge cluster trim panel in place are very easy accessible. Here are pictures showing where they are.
After these three screws are removed, you can then pull the trim piece straight out and up over the steering wheel. This is easily accomplished if the steering wheel is all the way down. Before pulling the trim panel all the way out you will have to dismantle the headlight switch from it. It is very easy and requires no tools. Basically just push in on the top half of it, firmly, and it will pop out the back of the trim panel.
Once the gauge cluster trim piece is out of the way, you will be able to access the four 7mm screws that hold in the gauge cluster. They are as follows:
#13
09-06-2017, 02:35 PM
I know this is old thred, but i have to ad this for others. 95 firebird headlights stopped working. The problem was the terminals where the headlight plugs into the harness had gotten corroded. Both right and left side on mine. I took that terminal out and soaked them in some vinegar and salt solution, boom, high and low beams work perfect now.
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