New to boards '95 Camaro couple of issues

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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 10:37 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by pheonix782
ok to pinpoint the issue with the rear vibration bc that is my major concern. Could it be Runout? I only feel it at like 40mph or less and after having the tires rotated and balanced today (free deal at Discount tire for me), the vibrations still occur. should I still check the driveshaft Gorn? and where? I know that's a bad pic but I'm at work and I was trying my best to figure it before tomorrow morning. Cheap/ inexpensive way I can check for Runout if it is?
I really do not know a better way to tell you how to check the bearing. It is right in the middle of the drive shaft. You just need to get under there and look.

Runout? All cars have some runout. Infact every part of the car that turns has runout. Is there a certain part you are thinking of that has too much runout? Runout is normally checked with an dial indicator but if you checking parts on the car then you are checking all the parts that make up what is turning at the same time.

Example: if I check the runout on a rim and I show it has .020" runout its fine, but if it has .150" I am not sure the rim is bad it could be the axle or both.
 
Old Dec 30, 2011 | 10:43 PM
  #12  
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How would I know a stud is bad? The pegs for the nuts were all fine and flush when I took off the tire after to make sure it wasn't bad or worn brakes in the drums today.
 
Old Dec 30, 2011 | 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by MKCoconuts
For your vibration in the rear, first check to see that you have all five lugs. Second, double check that they can be tightened down and that the studs aren't bad. Mine has one bad stud so the nut doesn't tighten down making the wheel shake a little anytime I'm above 15mph and on the gas.

I realize that you just had your tires rotated and balanced...but believe me there are mechanics out there that won't mention you have a bad stud because 1) They don't really care cause they get your money anyways or 2) They're dumb and just use a air impact wrench to tighten them down when really they should be torqued down to spec.
First off you should get that fixed ASAP. If someone tightened one lug enough it failed I would replace all 5. Lugs will strech and weaken long before they completley fail. Second under normal driving 4 lugs should be fine and not cause an issue, that is until you start hitting corners hard but in a straight line it should be fine.

If you see anyone using a impact gun on a lug to do more the just run the nut snug never take your car there again. I turned wrenchs for 7 year in flat rate shops and I never installed a rim without torqueing it.
 

Last edited by Gorn; Dec 30, 2011 at 10:53 PM.
Old Dec 30, 2011 | 10:50 PM
  #14  
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Ok well I'll check the Carrier Bearing tomorrow morning when it's light out and see. Is there a youtube video I could see to get an idea in how to "move" the drive shaft? or is there a way I should go about it? I'll prolly come at it from the side


hood ()---()
- -> |xxx| <-
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tail ()---()
 

Last edited by pheonix782; Dec 30, 2011 at 10:53 PM.
Old Jan 1, 2012 | 04:30 PM
  #15  
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Ok so just went under, no give or play with the drive shaft and after looking on youtube for what constituted that, I'm confident it's not the ujoint or carrier bearings. Could it still be the wheel bearings?
 
Old Jan 1, 2012 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by pheonix782
How would I know a stud is bad? The pegs for the nuts were all fine and flush when I took off the tire after to make sure it wasn't bad or worn brakes in the drums today.
As long as you can get all your nuts tightened down to the right specs, then it rules out my stud theory. I only suggested it because it's sounds pretty much like what my car is doing.
 
Old Jan 20, 2012 | 04:25 PM
  #17  
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Well I went to the mechanic finally and paid $50 for them to look at it and it's a bad carrier bearing. Apparently the drive shaft is all one unit and it's one of 3 options:

1- pay $1068 for a new one from the dealer and then $300 for the labor to install.
2- go junking and find a used one.... :-/
3- A guy in town at a drivetrain place etc.... can make a solid one and install it for like $450+tax

Questions:
Is going with a solid one a better option? If so, is that a good deal? If it's not a good deal anyone know any places and a decent price I should look for?
 
Old Jan 21, 2012 | 12:43 PM
  #18  
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$1068 for a new driveshaft??
 
Old Jan 22, 2012 | 10:47 AM
  #19  
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Yup that's what they told me at the mechanic and then I called over to a dealer just to make sure that the guy wasn't lying and sure enough it was that much at the dealer.
 
Old Jan 22, 2012 | 10:53 AM
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I think the drivetrain place in town sells Spicer solid driveshafts so I may go to them. Especially wince they said it would only be like $450+tax to install it. I dunno tho is a solid driveshaft better? I would do it myself but i feel like it might be over my head to try and replace it. I've never done something that in depth and i honestly don't want to ruin my car bc I cheaped out on fixing it.
 



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