My first F-Body!
lol
Thread Starter
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In the Staging Lanes
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 59
I picked the car up from the mechanic today. Everything checked out well for the most part. There are a few minor issues. Before I get to the issues let me tell you about the checkup.
The mechanic told me all the belts and hoses look "new" and do not need replaced. He pulled the spark plugs and said they look good, but could use a tune up if I wanted it. The coolant fluid, power steering fluid, and rear differential fluid with LSP needs changed. He recommended I do the tune up (if I want it) and fluid changes in the spring since I am not driving the car during the winter. The high beam lights and passenger side fog light was burnt out so he replaced them. I was missing some plastic “rivets/screws” (I think that is what they are called) that held a few plastic pieces in place. He replaced them for no change.
The mechanic put my car on the lift so I could see the underneath. There is some rust, but not too bad (I don’t think). Next year around spring/summer, I am going to have the underneath of my car restored/cleaned/rust sealed.
Now, here are the few minor issues he discovered:
1. The steering wheel column is loose. That is why the high beam light was on the dash when I originally bought it. To turn it off, you have to press down on the steering wheel to turn off and on the high beams. He took apart the steering wheel to tighten the four bolts that hold it in, but realized the bearing is bad. Thus why the steering wheel is loose. He told me it would be cheaper to buy a whole new steer wheel column, then to replace the bearings due to the labor cost (about 6hrs of labor).
2. The fuel pump is weak. This is why there is hesitation/long crank over to start up the car. He put on the fuel pressure tester and showed me where my pressure is at. It’s just barely getting 40 PSI, when it should be between 55-60 PSI. The fuel pump is going to cost around $730, labor $460, fuel filter $40. I am looking at $1,230 to fix it. He also mentioned to save me on cost, I should put the exhaust system on at the same time since the axel, and exhaust will have to be dropped to take out the fuel tank.
3. He told me right of bat my power steering line is not leaking, but there is some “wetness” there and on the pump. I took pictures for you all to see. He mentioned I should probably replace it sometime in the near future before it does go out.
What do you all think? Are the prices the mechanic quoted me outrageous? Besides these few minor issues, I think I bought a great car. Any advice is welcome
The mechanic told me all the belts and hoses look "new" and do not need replaced. He pulled the spark plugs and said they look good, but could use a tune up if I wanted it. The coolant fluid, power steering fluid, and rear differential fluid with LSP needs changed. He recommended I do the tune up (if I want it) and fluid changes in the spring since I am not driving the car during the winter. The high beam lights and passenger side fog light was burnt out so he replaced them. I was missing some plastic “rivets/screws” (I think that is what they are called) that held a few plastic pieces in place. He replaced them for no change.
The mechanic put my car on the lift so I could see the underneath. There is some rust, but not too bad (I don’t think). Next year around spring/summer, I am going to have the underneath of my car restored/cleaned/rust sealed.
Now, here are the few minor issues he discovered:
1. The steering wheel column is loose. That is why the high beam light was on the dash when I originally bought it. To turn it off, you have to press down on the steering wheel to turn off and on the high beams. He took apart the steering wheel to tighten the four bolts that hold it in, but realized the bearing is bad. Thus why the steering wheel is loose. He told me it would be cheaper to buy a whole new steer wheel column, then to replace the bearings due to the labor cost (about 6hrs of labor).
2. The fuel pump is weak. This is why there is hesitation/long crank over to start up the car. He put on the fuel pressure tester and showed me where my pressure is at. It’s just barely getting 40 PSI, when it should be between 55-60 PSI. The fuel pump is going to cost around $730, labor $460, fuel filter $40. I am looking at $1,230 to fix it. He also mentioned to save me on cost, I should put the exhaust system on at the same time since the axel, and exhaust will have to be dropped to take out the fuel tank.
3. He told me right of bat my power steering line is not leaking, but there is some “wetness” there and on the pump. I took pictures for you all to see. He mentioned I should probably replace it sometime in the near future before it does go out.
What do you all think? Are the prices the mechanic quoted me outrageous? Besides these few minor issues, I think I bought a great car. Any advice is welcome
Thread Starter
|
In the Staging Lanes
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 59
I have an idea to what I will do with the underneath of my car. Not sure if I will do it over the winter or in spring. Although, I don't know anyone that has a lift for me to access the underneath of my car!
Here are my thoughts:
1. Buy an electric angle grinder and a 60 grit sander wheel attachment to knock off the surface rust.
2. Rent or buy a small 30 gallon compressor and a small portable handy blaster. Buy some play sand from Lowes or Home Depot, and sandblast the underneath and rear differential.
3. Once, the rust is removed, spray the underneath of my car and rear differential with POR-15.
Are my thoughts pretty reasonable or is this outrageous?!
Would these jackstands work for me to put my car on?
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...80036/10002/-1
Also, guess what was waiting on my door for me....
I can hear the sound in my head!! haha
Here are my thoughts:
1. Buy an electric angle grinder and a 60 grit sander wheel attachment to knock off the surface rust.
2. Rent or buy a small 30 gallon compressor and a small portable handy blaster. Buy some play sand from Lowes or Home Depot, and sandblast the underneath and rear differential.
3. Once, the rust is removed, spray the underneath of my car and rear differential with POR-15.
Are my thoughts pretty reasonable or is this outrageous?!
Would these jackstands work for me to put my car on?
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...80036/10002/-1
Also, guess what was waiting on my door for me....
I can hear the sound in my head!! haha
Last edited by onefastls1; Dec 20, 2012 at 06:09 PM.
April 2011 ROTM
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 22,016
From: Tokeland, Washington
ROTM Winner's Club
do the hatch to change fuel pump. number 9 on the list here https://camaroforums.com/forum/93-02...62/#post557634 should spray some pb blaster on the rust to put a damper on it. patch that tear before it grabs something and gets ugly. looks like its been off road once. get yourself a repair manual for your year and model and save some major coin, need tools though so ask santa for a tool set, jack and jack stands.
Thread Starter
|
In the Staging Lanes
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 59
do the hatch to change fuel pump. number 9 on the list here https://camaroforums.com/forum/93-02...62/#post557634 should spray some pb blaster on the rust to put a damper on it. patch that tear before it grabs something and gets ugly. looks like its been off road once. get yourself a repair manual for your year and model and save some major coin, need tools though so ask santa for a tool set, jack and jack stands.