Idling poorly

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  #31  
Old 11-17-2011, 02:13 PM
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I definitely need to get a code reader for this car. It's like as soon as I fix something, something else comes up. I just tried to crank it and it would hesitate then finally start up. Should I replace the coil?
 
  #32  
Old 11-17-2011, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by greenmachine96
most likely it would but Idk if that would be the issue here. It could be worth a shot. here this has some good info on these sensors OBD-II Trouble Code: P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input But my guess is it has something to do with something you replaced or something you did when you clean your maf and iac. If the CT sensor is bad it probably would have ran like this before you changed that stuff unless it just coincidentally went bad after you did the other stuff.
I have a 95 so I would have to find an OBDI I believe?
 
  #33  
Old 11-17-2011, 02:19 PM
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like I said also the car would most likely be running rich. And you should be able to smell the car running rich. Basically if it is bad your car thinks it is cold out and needs to dump more fuel than normal.
 
  #34  
Old 11-17-2011, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by iLLControl
I have a 95 so I would have to find an OBDI I believe?
You might have an obdII style plug. You definitely are obdI but Ive heard that the 95's have the obdII plug but im not sure if that was the case for the v6's. If you were pulling a code for the CT sensor your light most likely would have come on. If no light then a code reader probably wouldnt help right now other than to maybe check out stored codes for previous codes the pcm threw. I just posted that link to show you what the symptoms are for a bad CT sensor. If your car smells like its running rich the ct sensor could definitely be the problem. If they are as cheap as what he said you could replace it and see if it solves your issue. My guess is still that you may have done something to cause the maf or iac to produce a faulty reading.
 

Last edited by greenmachine96; 11-17-2011 at 02:29 PM.
  #35  
Old 11-17-2011, 02:24 PM
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like I said before......it's 10 to 15 little cheap things....all of them are easy to replace and are relatively inexpensive. The problem is that they have a tendency to all go bad at once.

1) coolant temp sensor...top of the motor, not the side one 10$ O'Reilly
2) fuel pressure regulator 65$ O'Reilly
3) possible bad injectors (leaky) 250$ (Accel) 17lb
4) all vacuum lines 25$ Dealer
5) clean the IAC (idle air control) 4$ choke cleaner
6) IAT (intake air temp) 16$ O'Reilly
7) Exhaust Gas Recirculator Valve 105$ Summit Rcng
8) purge valve vapor line fitting 3$ 1/4" fuel line
9) clean the intake 20$ amzoil pwr foam
10)clean the throttle body 4$ choke cleaner
11)power brake booster check valve 31$ GMC not Chevy
12)possible MAP(manifold absolute press sensor) *not likely* 55$ O'Reilly


This is what I did......but I spent a total of 8 grand replacing all of the afore mentioned, doing a short block rebuild, replacing the entire braking system, replacing the fuel sender assembly(including pump), and putting a WHOLE new suspension system on her. She got A LOT OF WORK! To say the least, it runs GREAT! Believe me when I tell you this......all of the components I mentioned in the list are important because the system degrades to the point where you are getting what you have now. Mine did exactly the same thing. If you want it to run right again....it will take you doing what I price listed. It's actually a lot of fun. As a result, I'm getting over 31 MPG. That's better than factory. Believe me......break down and do it all....otherwise you're gonna be chasing gremlins in that thing for years.
 
  #36  
Old 11-17-2011, 02:29 PM
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Dont get me wrong......you dont have to do any of it.....you could leave it alone and chase little things for a lonf time.......thats what I did....the best thing to do is realize that a MAP system is very sensitive and requires specific parameters in order to function properly.

Like I said, you dont have to spend the money....it will run.......but it wont run right, and you'll be dissatified with it.
 
  #37  
Old 11-17-2011, 02:35 PM
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Thanks Richard, yeah shes at 160k miles so it could be possible im in for a total part replacement lol, the previous owner didnt take jack **** care of her so I took her for $900 and saved her from becoming scrapped
 
  #38  
Old 11-17-2011, 02:41 PM
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Richard could be right, but you should post a video when you can to show us exactly what your talking about. If you planned on selling the car it really isnt worth you replacing all of that stuff, especially if all it is is a small idle fluctuation or something minor like that. The car is only worth so much with that many miles on it and I would hate to see you spend what you can get out of it on replacing all of that stuff and then end up breaking even or something.
 
  #39  
Old 11-17-2011, 02:47 PM
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I will for sure, I appreciate the help you two are giving. Im about to post a video of me just cranking it up and running it, you can kind of hear the exhaust and engine kind of pulsing. When I crank it up you can also hear how tough and ridged it is, kinda sounds like im starting up truck
 
  #40  
Old 11-17-2011, 02:52 PM
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Have you tested your fuel pressure? If not it might be a good idea to do so. Just to see if it could be a fuel delivery issue.
 


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