Idling poorly

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  #11  
Old 11-15-2011, 05:08 PM
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Thanks Richard good info man, pete, I thought there was alot more evidence of misfiring? like noises etc? I'll go ahead and check my wires and lights, be back soon
 
  #12  
Old 11-15-2011, 05:33 PM
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So some of the wires were crossing, I fixed it but to no avail. I put my hand on top of the engine and instead of constantly shaking it kind of pulses, barely but noticable. I stuck my hand behind the exhaust while the car was running and there are small pulses of exhaust along with the normal excretion of exhaust( if that makes sense) I hope its not a misfire
 
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Old 11-15-2011, 10:40 PM
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you can have your injectors cleaned and flow tested at a shop for way less than new injectors. check with a local injector shop. usually one or two in a major city. rebuilt sets are 130 bucks for a stock 3.4.
 
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Old 11-17-2011, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by z28pete
An important thing to keep in mind, is that if an engine is shaking at idle and using a stock camshaft, it is misfiring. The most likely cause is ignition, so check the plugs and wires you replaced, make sure the wire are not crossed, or broken internally and externally. and that all the plugs are firing. If ignition is good, than start looking at the various sensors and fuel delivery. If the SES lamp is lit or flashing, get the PCM scanned for codes, it can be a great time and money saver.
This is a great point as well. One of the other things I replaced was my stock coils.....use the Accel 45,000 volt coils from Summit....they're 42 bucks a pop. Consequently my 3.4L runs like it's factory. Even mechanics have to look twice at the mileage because they can't believe how well it runs with the milelage showing over 232,000. Vacuum! Vacuum! Vacuum!!!!!! This engine HAS TO HAVE IT REGULATED PROPERLY. That's why most vehicles now are MAF (mass air flow). MAF takes it reading from the amount of friction the air makes. In this case vacuum is not as critical (important....just not critical). MAP (manifold absolute pressure) is much more tedious, but it can be more accurate. The 3.4L MUST HAVE VACUUM. Okay I'm done....gettin' off my soapbox now. Have a great day.
 
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Old 11-17-2011, 11:50 AM
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Can someone direct me of the firing order and where to run the wires? I thought I had them all correct but I may have accidently switched one. That HAS to be the cause of the misfire
 
  #16  
Old 11-17-2011, 12:02 PM
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  #17  
Old 11-17-2011, 12:26 PM
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So I stand in front of my car i'll just do it like this- Left side of engine going back is 123, right side going back is 456

So it would be (According to the distributor)
L=
1-2
2-4
3-6
R=
4-1
5-3
6-5
Does that seem correct?
 
  #18  
Old 11-17-2011, 12:35 PM
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i just took a picture of it in a Haynes Repair Manual.......email me richard.nelson100@yahoo.com and I'll send you the picture of the firing order and wiring diagram..........easy enough?
 
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Old 11-17-2011, 12:36 PM
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Im dumb. I actually have a haynes manual I didnt think to check. What page? hahaha
 
  #20  
Old 11-17-2011, 12:41 PM
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Took me a bit to find the manual, I found it thanks ;D
 


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