So I recently had to get the fuel pressure regulator replaced on my '95 Z due to the vaccum rupturing. Took it to a mechanic I've never been to before but got fairly decent reviews from what I could tell. Well when I got my Z back, it ran, but not to my liking. Upon trying to start it, it cranks for awhile (normally almost starts instantly) and then fires up. Once it reaches normal idle, it runs a bit rough, but driving it, it seems perfectly fine. I also noticed a bit of hesitation at times when accerating.

Well I called the mechanic back and he stated that "other parts were saturated with gas so that's probably why you're having issues. I would start with the spark plugs..." Well I have new plugs and talking to a few hardcore camaro enthusiasts, they said it is more likely that the engine is completely fine and that the mechanic put in a cheap generic part instead of a GM part so its getting improper fuel pressure and what not during start up, etc.

Have any of you had this kind of issue? Do you think it is possible that my current issues are caused due to crappy parts from the mechanic? Also, how difficult is it to replace a fuel pressure regulator?

Thanks for the help guys.

 

You could always check the mechanic's work by taking a fuel pressure reading.

 

How would I go about doing that? And what exactly does that check? Thanks again.

 

You would need to get a fuel pressure gauge and use it to measure the amount of fuel pressure your vehicle is currently using to pump fuel

 

number 32 on the list, 4th Gen LT1 F-Body Tech Aids

 

Gagger84,

If you're still interested in the procedure for replacing the fuel pressure regulator on a '95 Z28 then I'm going to post it up. If not, then hopefully someone else will benefit from it

1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2) Relieve fuel system pressure by performing the following steps:
a) Loosen the fuel filler cap to relieve the tank pressure and do not tighten until service has been completed.
b) Connect fuel pressure gauge J-34730-1, or equivalent, to the fuel pressure test valve. Wrap a shop towel around the fitting while connecting the gauge to prevent spillage.
c) Place the end of the bleed hose into a suitable container and open the valve to relieve the fuel system pressure.
d) Drain any remaining fuel into an approved container.

3) Remove the fuel rail cover.

4) Remove the fuel rail.

5) Remove the fuel tube bracket attaching screw, then remove the bracket.

6) Unfasten the pressure regulator attaching screw and separate the regulator from the fuel rail assembly.

7) Remove the fuel outlet tube retaining clip, then remove the tube from the pressure regulator.

8) Remove the pressure regulator inlet and fuel outlet tube O-rings, then discard.

9) Inspect the filter screen for contamination. If contaminated, replace it with a new one.

To install:

1) Lubricate the new pressure regulator inlet and outlet tube O-rings with clean engine oil and install.

2) Install the fuel outlet tube into the regulator and install the retaining clip.

3) Push the pressure regulator into the fuel rail and install the retaining screw.

4) Tighten the screw to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).

5) Install the fuel tube bracket and retaining screw. Tighten the screw to 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm).

6) Install the fuel rail assembly.

7) Connect the negative battery cable.

8) With the engine off, turn the ignition switch to the ON position for 2 seconds, then turn it to the OFF position for 10 seconds. Again turn it to the ON position and check for fuel leaks.

The fuel pressure regulator itself typically is sold as a kit (this includes the fuel pressure regulator and the seal). I think that the OEM part number is 236424, but I'll double check later and get back to all y'all

Good luck man!

 

Awesome! Thanks TheRegulator327 for the help! I plan on changing it out this weekend! Seems manageable...