Camaro Coolant Leak????

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  #21  
Old 03-29-2017, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by craby
parts store should have various sizes of rubber caps.
Thank you! You've been a great help!
 
  #22  
Old 03-29-2017, 09:48 PM
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i bet a hardware store would have some good heavy rubber caps too.
 
  #23  
Old 03-30-2017, 05:46 PM
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If this was me doing it, I'd get a brass push lock "T" and some rubber hose that size. I'd splice into one of my heater lines, install the "T" and run hose off it back to that spot on the radiator. This could be done for under $20.
 
  #24  
Old 03-31-2017, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by craby
i bet a hardware store would have some good heavy rubber caps too.
OK so I bought a rubber cap for the replacement, it is bigger than I thought so I had to tighten it with the clamp. I also bought a fat rubber cap to plug up the hose bib line but I don't think it will hold. Also, I am not sure if I flushed my coolant correctly.

What I did was:
1) Unplug the petcock and let all the old coolant drain for about 10 minutes.
2) Reinsert the petcock
3) Fill distilled water all the way to the top on the radiator and on the reservoir.
4) Start car, turned on defroster and revved up to 2500 rpm's for a few times and wait 10 minutes for the engine to heat up.
5) Drain the distilled water by unplugging petcock
6) After a little over 5 minutes past I reinserted the petcock and filled the radiator and reservoir to the top with 50/50 prediluted coolant.
7) Start car and let it warm up for about 10 minutes
8) After a drive around the block I parked my car and opened the hood
9) After a few minutes the radiator cap start spewing out coolant and smoke started coming out.
10) I opened the cap and there was a lot of smoke coming out and I saw that the radiator wasn't full so I filled it up of what's left of my coolant and I ran out of coolant.(I bought 1 gallon of "Peak" coolant)
11) It still wasn't enough to fill up the radiator so now I'm confused.

UPDATE: I added half a gallon more of coolant and the coolant is slowly decreasing. Is it possible I have a leak or is that normal?


All feedback would be appreciated
 

Last edited by Bboyphil; 03-31-2017 at 01:22 PM.
  #25  
Old 03-31-2017, 07:37 PM
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you need to bleed the air out of the system. should be beeding screws, usually one around the thermostate and the heater hoses. different spots for different engines and cooling systems. my lt1 has three and its still hard to get all the air out. good idea to have the front of the car up as much as you can when filling, helps to get the air out. like on a steep hill or on jack stands.
 
  #26  
Old 03-31-2017, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by craby
you need to bleed the air out of the system. should be beeding screws, usually one around the thermostate and the heater hoses. different spots for different engines and cooling systems. my lt1 has three and its still hard to get all the air out. good idea to have the front of the car up as much as you can when filling, helps to get the air out. like on a steep hill or on jack stands.
Ahhh I did not know about this...

I think its too late now Is there anything I can do now?
 
  #27  
Old 03-31-2017, 08:35 PM
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make sure its filled up and bleed it to see if any air is in it.
 
  #28  
Old 03-31-2017, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by craby
make sure its filled up and bleed it to see if any air is in it.
I don't think I can see the bleeder screws
 
  #29  
Old 03-31-2017, 08:50 PM
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Also I asked about what I could do about the throttle line valve at autozone and they said I need to connect one of these DIRECTLY to the transmission

Duralast Transmission Cooler Line Assembly A61221 - Read Reviews on Duralast #A61221


But I can't see anything where this would connect to on my trans
 
  #30  
Old 03-31-2017, 08:58 PM
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could be you dont have any, heres a writeup and found

**Bleeding the system of air:
Start it up and let it run, radiator cap OFF, and let it warm up till the t-stat opens. I rapidly squeeze the upper and lower radiator hose like 20 times while its warming up to help move any air bubbles through the system and by the t-stat on the engine side. When the t-stat opens you’ll see the level drop as you squeeze it, its sucking the coolant through the system. You will also see the coolant start to flow in the radiator fill neck, once it starts to flow the level should drop down a lot, immediately top it off with coolant/water. Then the flow will stop when the t-stat closes. Wait one more time for the t-stat to open again and start to flow, if it drops down again top it off again. Do it a 3rd time if you want to make sure. I always massage the upper hose during the whole process to keep any air bubbles moving through. Always works like a charm. Just keep checking your temp gauge until the t-stat opens for the first time to make sure it’s not sitting there overheating from a trapped bubble. May take 10-15 minutes for the t-stat to open the first time.
If you do start to get hot while sitting there and the t-stat will not open…..you have an air bubble on the engine side of the t-stat. Shut the engine off and rapidly squeeze the upper and lower radiator hoses again. Then start the engine again and see if the t-stat will open. Sometimes you just have to work those hoses to move the air through. Even after it seems topped off after a couple cycles…check it the next time you have a cold engine…top off if needed. from here bleed air from cooling system? - LS1TECH
 


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