Brakes vs Chassis?
Cool, I'm glad you got some good inputs -- Strano is a book of handling/suspension knowledge -- a little gruff, but pretty unbiased on products and brands for what REALLY works...
If you're set on his lowering springs, go for it, but do them at the same time as your shocks (esp. the fronts), else you're doing almost the same job twice. Sways can go on regardless, you'll just have to disconnect front end-links when doing the shocks/springs later.
Strano usually recommends a full-length adjustable torque arm, like UMIs -- is that what he told you?
If you're set on his lowering springs, go for it, but do them at the same time as your shocks (esp. the fronts), else you're doing almost the same job twice. Sways can go on regardless, you'll just have to disconnect front end-links when doing the shocks/springs later.
Strano usually recommends a full-length adjustable torque arm, like UMIs -- is that what he told you?
I spent a few minutes on the phone with Sam and he supported everything you just wrote. I wanted to try his springs, but he's backordered like two months. He pretty much convinced to spend the money on the Koni's and sways, which will be a big help. He said the torque arm and SFC are good upgrades, but the money would be better spent on a set of Kick-A$$ shocks. I'm gonna order a set of Koni's...once I get them installed I'll post up some picks and feedback.
Out of curiosity, did you put the Konis on first or the SFCs? If Koni's first, did you notice much of a difference with the SFCs? Are they welded?
Consensus seems to be you will notice the welded SFCs more on the stocker shocks, but Konis or Bilsteins tend to hide some of the effect...
I had the SFCs welded first, and still have yet to get my front Konis on -- soon, gotta order new shock mounts first.
Consensus seems to be you will notice the welded SFCs more on the stocker shocks, but Konis or Bilsteins tend to hide some of the effect...
I had the SFCs welded first, and still have yet to get my front Konis on -- soon, gotta order new shock mounts first.

Cool. You will be in for a treat from what others have said that the 35/22 hollow sways really made the completion, and a big difference.
Actually the real completion is supposed to be a watts link in the rear to replace the panhard and stabilizer bar, which I am seriously considering -- not cheap though.
Actually the real completion is supposed to be a watts link in the rear to replace the panhard and stabilizer bar, which I am seriously considering -- not cheap though.
Last edited by libertyforall1776; Apr 28, 2011 at 05:06 PM.
Don't forget, that upgrading your suspension and handling also help the performance of the brakes. The less weight that shifts to the front wheels when you slam on the brakes, the less abuse they have to take on their own
As per my conversation with Sam, here really stressed the point to have good shocks. He said the money spent here would be more beneficial that SFC and UMI torque arm. He said he doesn't even run SFC on his car, because good shocks will relieve more of the strain. Although, he said they never hurt.
He also said the torque arm is good if you are getting excessive wheel hop, which is more related to straight line accelaration. I'm going to start doing a little auto-crossing...if I was drag racing the torque-arm would be more beneficial.
I really appreciate his straight forwardness, I'm gonna spend the money I have set aside to buy really good shocks, rather than mediocre shocks and the SFc and torque arm.
He also said the torque arm is good if you are getting excessive wheel hop, which is more related to straight line accelaration. I'm going to start doing a little auto-crossing...if I was drag racing the torque-arm would be more beneficial.
I really appreciate his straight forwardness, I'm gonna spend the money I have set aside to buy really good shocks, rather than mediocre shocks and the SFc and torque arm.



