99 z28 wont start. help plz.
ok so i bought a 1999 z28 6 speed camaro. 1st week of driving it check engine light came on. got it checked it came back code 420. i was told my catts were starting to clog up. so before i had the chance to even fix or look into that problem my car wouldnt start one day. came back 2 days later and it fired right up and drove great. next day it wouldnt start so i hit that gas while cranking and it fired up and wanted to die so i revved it and it stayed running i started taking off and it wanted to die so i threw it into neutral reved it and threw it in first and it drove great after that. the next day it wouldnt start and i tryed it later and it started but died after about 10 secs. so i let it sit for 3 days cause i work. now it wont start at all. it cranks fine and if u hit it with a squirt of starting fluid in the throttle body it fires up then dies. checked my fuel valve on the fuel line and there is no pressure. so i changed my fuel pump(oem) and fuel filter and still nothing. so then i went to my fuses and relays. i didnt buy new ones but swapped them with other relays that were the same that worked. i think it was my ac relay. acc does work. anyways all fuses and relays are good and still no fuel to the front. oh and the fuel pump doesnt even prime when u kick the key over, it dont even turn on. so what am i looking at an electrical problem? or is it just my pcm? please help cause i dont know what it is and i keep sinking money into it. email me if you would, or something this is my first post so i hope i get responses and that i did it right. thanks all and sorry for the long post....
sounds to me like you have a bad fuel pump. Those are pretty classic symptoms of a bad fuel pump. one way you can check is have someone crank the engine over and pound on the middle of fuel tank and see if you can get the fuel pump to kick over. If it does your fuel pump is on the outs and needs replaced. if pounding does nothing to get the fuel pump to kick on you still may have a bad fuel pump it's just already dead. Then you need to check for power and ground at the fuel pump. pretty sure you just have a bad fuel pump though. Which isn't easy to replace on the 4th gens so good luck. labor is 4.6 hours and an Autozone fuel pump is $370. pretty expensive.
i checked for voltage at the relay, im getting 12v. so i went back to my fuel pump and unlpugged one wire off of it and my gas gauge stopped working so i would say that wire would have to deal with it and seemed as if it was working. but i tested it anyways and the other wire and im getting 5v from both of them. i also have a spare ignition key and tryed using that to see if it was the chip in it acting up and still nothing, and it has a brand new fuel pump in it, just bought it cause i thought that was the problem, and i used the hatch door method. i cut the square in my trunk. i mean whats my options? bad pcm, or i bought a bad fuel pump? scratch that i bought the whole kit thing were i just drop it in there connect 2 wire and 3 hoses.
check and make sure you have 12v on the grey wire that is what powers the fuel pump. make sure when your voltmeter is hooked up first then cycle the key on. there is only power there for a few seconds. you tested the grey black and the purple wire which is were you got the 5 volts which is a power feed from the pcm to the fuel sender and fuel tank pressure sensor.
I've seen happen before is sometimes the fuel pump connector will get really hot and kind of melt and will cause poor connections. maybe take some pictures of what you connectors your testing and what not.
I've seen happen before is sometimes the fuel pump connector will get really hot and kind of melt and will cause poor connections. maybe take some pictures of what you connectors your testing and what not.
thanks you was right, i wasnt getting power to the pump. i got 5v from the pcm wire and what not but i wasnt getting the 12v fromt the other. i unwrapped the black tape off the wire and the wire was burnt. i replaced the wire and the car fired right up. thanks man.
Nice work. Glad I could help. it seems like craby had it right first though lol.
I've come across lots of VATS issues too. I would buy a VATS bypass off eBay and wire it up with a hidden switch and if your ever having starting issues you could flip the switch and bypass it. Easy way to diagnose and get around the VATS bs. pretty simple and cheap to do.
test the wires to the fuel pump when you first turn the key on to see if your getting power. could be vats acting up, key slug may also be failing.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post





