2500rpms stuck?

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  #41  
Old 07-19-2013, 03:26 PM
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It was running right then just started running bad, You said it will not idle, how is the power? Can it be drivien?

I would be worried the cam bearings cause the timing chain to jump.
 
  #42  
Old 07-19-2013, 03:44 PM
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I have done this, the manual shows me how and where, it's not that, lol, unless you have a diagram I could use maybe I am reading it wrong!
 
  #43  
Old 07-19-2013, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by craby
make double sure the plug wires are going to the right plug. very easy to get them mixed.
-After checking the firing order I would take a multimeter and test the resistance (OHMS) of your new wires. New wires does not mean that they can not be bad. Also make sure when the wires are plugged in you hear or feel the click of them locking on (I have seen other make the mistake of thinking they were good to go but were not seated completely).

-I think you mentioned your plugs or wires were grounding out so I would also check for spark/quality of spark at each plug also. Grounded out conditions can cause ignition problems.

-I would also start with something simple like pulling vacuum lines off the manifold/trottle body and plugging them 1 at a time to see if the car runs the way it should. If you remove and plug a vacuum line and there is no change then reconnect it and move to the next one. If you remove it and it runs the way it should than you know what area to target and diagnose.
 
  #44  
Old 07-19-2013, 04:05 PM
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Thank you mike I will try this but my car in its current state will not stay running for longer than afew seconds, and it seems that the motor is hitting very hard....
 
  #45  
Old 07-19-2013, 04:21 PM
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Based on that information I would also try removing the 02 sensor before the CAT. I have seen symptoms like this when the CAT is plugged and not allowing much exhaust to flow. Removing the O2 sensor allows another passage for the exhaust to flow through. Keep in mind that this is not a very big opening but should at least allow the vehicle to idle semi stable.

You have to be careful when running a vehicle with the O2 sensor removed since something could (not saying it will) catch fire. As an extra precaution I may have a water hose near on standby.. just incase.


This maybe suspect because hitting a bump will cause a semi clog and that will cause a bog; then hit a bump again and the blockage will move allowing for normal performance.
 
  #46  
Old 07-19-2013, 04:25 PM
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I see but my 3.4 has O2 sensors on each header directly off the block, but my cat could be the issue, the previous owner had the y-pipe welded to the cat which is welded to the remainder of the pipe out the rear of the car, I basically have a 2piece system, pretty dumb.....
 
  #47  
Old 07-19-2013, 05:28 PM
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If your not comfortable removing the o2 sensors and running the car than you can buy or maybe even borrow a vacuum gauge that will also read back pressure. They have an adapter that screws into the the exhaust and you can observe the back pressure while running/cranking the vehicle.

I am not saying your CAT is plugged because in all my time I have only seen this legit happen on 2 vehicles. But the first time I encountered it, it had me scratching my head for a minute: I have fuel, spark and compression... there is no reason for you not to run!


The other option that I think most people forget would be let a mechanic diagnosis it and than make the repairs yourself. I have never met a mechanic that had a problem with this as long as you tell them upfront. And honestly if they do have a problem... that would be a good time to walk away.
 
  #48  
Old 07-19-2013, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by njmike
They have an adapter that screws into the the exhaust and you can observe the back pressure while running/cranking the vehicle..
Forgot to mention that you still have to remove the o2 sensor for the gauge. The adapter for the gauge screws into where the o2 sensor was.
 
  #49  
Old 07-20-2013, 12:51 AM
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Thank you very much!
 
  #50  
Old 07-28-2013, 10:43 PM
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Blown head gasket!
 


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