there is an inlet and exit to the heater core. Are both hoses/pipes just about the same hot temperature to touch when the car is at operating temp?

If so, then you have hot "water" going to the heater core, then the issue is getting it diverted into the car. That would be a control so it's under the dash with you to see what is happening

shbox.com has diagrams of the controls

If there is no hot water going into the heater core then trace back and you'll find the culprit

It's a simple design, the heater core is like a radiator in the home, hot water runs through it and the fins dissipate the heat. In a car, air is blown through the fins of the heater core and that is how it's warmed.

 

New development! I had my coworker start my car about 20 minutes before we left work tonight and my heat was WARM! I'be let it warm up before and it was still cool. This leads me to believe there was a blockage in the heater lines. Should I just replace the heater lines next friday when I get paid, or have the system flushed again?

 

it would be the cooling system that would get flushed. If that is what actually was the issue, then you now have something lodged or flowing around somewhere be it in the radiator, a hose, the water pump or even the engine block

 

So your suggestion would be to have another flush done torque_is_good? Thats cheaper than the heater hose assembly. The cheapest one ive found is like $130. And then I have to install them and fill and bleed the system. Again.

 

did you check the coolant level to see if it dropped? maybe you got an air lock to let lose.

 

Actually I haven't craby... Can it take weeks to get the air completely? I'll check it in a few minutes and report back.

 

the problem with making suggestions in forums is that we only have for information what the posters write.

So, let's review

we've read: new radiator, heater core and thermostat

We then read the question about doing $130 coolant flush. Well, since coolant is about $11 for a gallon bottle, and you make 2 gallons from that (what is needed), then I must ASSUME that you pay people to do the work, is that correct?


If that is the case and has been the case, then it's called warranty and bring it back

I've also never read if at any time you put your hand on the inlet and the exit hose from the heater core to verify if hot coolant is flowing in/out. I questioned that in a previous post that I made

If I had paid someone to replace a radiator, thermostat and heater core and there was goo in my cooling system, then I'd have an issue with the shop. If there was blockage inside the NEW heater core, I'd again have an issue.

Within your thread there are lots of maybes

I believe you cited that the temp gauge does rise. Well, is the gauge good?

Also, does it rise quickly, and I mean quickly? I've seen that when an air pocket was at the coolant temp sensor, but that cleared itself quickly as well


Could you have had a thermostat stuck in the open position and then miraculously started to function correctly? That's possible but your temp gauge claim belies that theory and I've never seen a thermo go from being stuck open to working but it does not mean that it's not possible

lotta what ifs and maybes

without supporting data and full disclosure, all we, your fellow forum members can do, is toss out our best guesses based upon the data provided by you

 

Craby the coolant level did drop a bit in the radiator. I just topped it off maybe a quart and a half. Torque you have a point there but I don't see anything in my radiator so I think the flush I had done was performed correctly. Unless something is really stuck to the inside of the metal sections of the coolant lines. But I'm feeling like craby was right on this one with the air picket theory. I'll let you guys know how it feels later on tonight when I leave work.