If I have time to, that'd be fine. I'm in school full time, and I work all the damn time. If there's a small leak, you might not even be able to see it. As for the parts rebuilding, it basically means that you'd be honing all the cylinders and replacing all the rubber and springs.

 

If you are drilling and taking away material from the rotor surface, how are you getting a greater surface area? Yes brake pads have a grove in them too to help dissapate heat. Since the rotors are allowing the gases to escape, it takes heat with the gases being evacuated therefore cooler brakes. They do let your brakes work more efficiently. I personally prefer slotted rotors instead of drilled for street/strip driving since the structual integerity is better and they don't crack as much. You'll get a longer service life outta them. You can also get Russell or Earl's Stainless steel braided brake lines that go to the calipers from the hard line and replaces the rubber one that bridges the hard line from the chassis to the rear diff.

 

It doesn't cost much more to buy new parts. Just look for the brake parts that are wet. Check it on the front soft brake lines and at all the connections. Your car has struts and is designed with a little extra camber on the front that allows it to handle a little bit better hence the waring on the outside. Check your tires, the modern tires can usually hold up to 44 lbs of maximum pressure.

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/resul...&perfcat=track

 

I think you're confusing surface area with pad contact area. The drilled holes provide more surface for air exposure than a solid rotor. The gas disipation helps more with keeping pad to rotor contact in line than heat disipation. As I said before, the gases build up between the rotor and the pad, and while the layer is extremely thin, and you can't even see that it's there, it's more than enough to cause excessive brake fade, which is also the primary reason for the slotted pads.

 

i went and did some testing. from what my speedo was registering as 50 mph (i think it might be inaccurate), it took about 250 feet to stop using full brake. it locked them up around 10 mph and skidded about 10 feet. its still taking too much distance to stop, and since i live in a high deer population area, it concerns me. i checked the rear brake discs and a visual over the pads. theres minimal stepped wear on the disc (just a bit of a lip), and no grooves. the pads look a little worn though. i didnt get a chance to look at the front pads.

i looked at the hawk hps pads from the tire rack online store (sorry, i dont remember who gave me the link). that will on the front and rear brakes, right?

i guess i should look tomarrow and see if i have the dual piston calipers up front

 

You should index those rotors too, see if they're getting even pad contact throughout the braking cycle. Were the rear pads worn evenly from front to back and and about the same amount for each pad?

 

i didnt take the pads out to see how they were worn, i just looked at what was visible. what i was told by a mechanic at a gm dealer (i was checking to see if there are any different braking systems for the camaro i.e. heavy or standard duty, and there isnt), and he told me its possible that the calipers can freeze from rust if allowed to sit long enough (and it sat over a year without being moved much). rebuilt calipers were $30, and my brother suggested to me that i replace the rear hoses while i was at it, if that is the problem. what are your guy's opinions?

 

That's your call. Personally, I'd rebuild the calipers myself. The supplies and tools needed are about the same price as a single caliper. If you wanna came down this way some time this or next week with the old calipers and the stuff needed, I can teach you how to rebuild the stuff. Might as well bring the wheel cylinders too. But make sure your bleeder screws open before removing anything from the car.

 

Eh, I know this is kinda old, but the only thing you'll get from over inflation is the center tread on the road, while outer isn't on the road. Once you get new tires, keep them at whatever the reccomended is. I THINK it's 32, but like I've said before, mine's been off the road for a while. If you can, find someone who has nitrogen and use that in the tires. It's like $2 a tire around here, and doesn't seep out or change volume or pressure in normal operating conditions like air does.